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Tricky78

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Posts posted by Tricky78


  1. 2 hours ago, The Dogmother said:

    I guess that like most other businesses, their supply chain has been disrupted by the side effects of Covid-19. It's a shame for all small companies, and while I can understand your frustration, we all need to show a little understanding at this time.

    29070817_localbusinesses.thumb.jpg.bf98c7a26379caa72fb56ff1c1154c5f.jpg

    I get what you're saying but omlet are hardly a small business. 

    I know it's out of their control but having delivery days pushed out twice doesn't inspire much confidence. 


  2. 24 minutes ago, Cat tails said:

    Just keep that first 5 cm of run attached to your Go and attach the WIR to that. You still need the wire parts under the Go though or you need to cut a whole in your WIR at door height. But don’t know what you win by that. 
    Alternatively you could put the Go Up in the WIR.

    That's what I was hoping to do, the wire panels snip very easiyl with a decent pair of sidecutters.

     

    Would I need any of the connector kits?

    2 hours ago, The Dogmother said:

    The thing here, which mullethunter touched upon is that the first section of any of the Omlet integral runs has the crucial connecting bit, which attaches the run to the housing. This section can then easily be cobbled onto almost any walk-in run.  Without that first section, the job will be very much more difficult, so if you can convince yourself to keep that first section, then you're sorted... hacksaw, snips and cable ties and you're away ;)

    I think this should be achievable, just wanted to be sure.

     

    Would I need any of the connector kits

     

     

    Many thanks


  3. Thanks for the reply.

     

    Yes I am looking to remove the run attached to the Go Up and connect it to the low rise walk in run by modifying some panels.

    12 minutes ago, mullethunter said:

    You can pretty much do anything if you have enough cable ties. I have a Cube run attached to a lo-rise WIR which Omlet say you can’t do but which actually works perfectly well.

    Are you talking about attaching the Go Up straight to the WIR with no run at all though? If you wanted to do that I think you’d probably have to butcher one of the WIR panels. If you still have some of the run attached to the Go Up house though I reckon it’d be easy just to leave out one of the lower panels of the WIR and cable tie and run clip it all together.

     


  4. Well in the hour of need amd with the panic buying happening, one of my hens has laid our first egg 😃

    Minnie (dutch bantam) laid our first egg today, i feel like a proud father. 

    Note that it's not my nails, my wife sent the pic as I'm offshore 

     

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  5. Been letting my girls out each day from 1-5 and they ventured a little furher from the run today.

     

    They have started making noises when i approach the run, not sure if it's good or bad sing. Had Tiffin (brown one) and Daisy (grey one) eating out my hand.

     

    Putting in a little work and taming them each day.

    Still no eggs.

    20200311_144447.jpg

    • Like 1

  6. 16 minutes ago, Peter said:

    When they are about to start laying their comb usually turns very bright and fresh looking.

    Peter

    They don't really have much of a comb at the moment.

    1 hour ago, The Dogmother said:

    They will venture out when they feel confident - I usually recommend that newbies are left in the run for at least a week anyway; this builds up their homing instinct to return there when you do let them out. This time can be used to give them all a health check and treat them for lice and worms as a preventative measure. I also train them to come when I whistle, which makes getting them back in the run a cinch. They look around PoL, so probs about 18 weeks..... they will lay when they are ready, looks like the top one in your photo may be first.

    What checks should i be carrying out at the moment and how?

     

    Thanks.


  7. 12 hours ago, ThreeChooks said:

    I’m interested in how the door locks, from the video it seems as though the auto door mechanism doesn’t pull the bit up at the top which you need to lock the door in place? How does the door stay shut? And do you need the battery pack it comes with? I’m curious as to why the battery pack is sold separately.

    The door is always lifted so the lock by dropping the door no longer works. There is no way a predator could open the door against the motor as it's solid, once it's shut it's very secure. 

     

    I think the battery is sold separately to make the automatic door opener seem cheaper.  It's a good setup and I'm glad i've invested in it.

     

    The battery is charged via the solar panel but you still need the battery.

    My hens seem very reluctant to leave the run, any idea on how i can entice them out? 

     

    They are slowly getting used to us as they no longer go to the back of the run then i approach.

     

    Also any idea roughly how old they are and when can we expect eggs? The kids are very excited.

     

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    • Like 1

  8. I've let them out every afternoon, they really don't seem interested in leaving the run.

     

    The automatic door is working well, they go up to roost about 5.30.

     

    I'll try and entice them out tomorrow with some corn.


  9. Well they were let out of the run for their first free range time. They didn't venture far buty Dutch bantam took flight on top of my 6ft fence.

    I thought chickens were clumsy fliers but she got up there no bother. 

     

    I clipped their flight feathers on one wing today,  didn't want to do it but if they get over the back there is a stream and thick undergrowth so I'd struggle to get them back.

     

    I've had the run door open all day but they don't seen interested in coming out.

     

    My hentronix automatic door arrived today so I'll get that fitted.

     

    They love live mealworms as they coo as they are eating them.

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    • Like 1

  10. 1 minute ago, The Dogmother said:

    If they are teeny, then they might find that perch too big for their feet - it is made for big hybrids. You could always make your own. Dutchies are quite good at flying - well the ones I have had were.

    I'll wait and see how they get on.

     

    What would you suggest to use as a perch that would suit their feet?

     

    Looking forward to seeing them exploring their new home tomorrow.

     

    Thanks


  11. 15 minutes ago, The Dogmother said:

    Errmmm, not heard of a French Bantam or a cross of one before - you'll have to post photos.

    You might want to lower it slightly... it may be the angle/foreshortening, but that run looks a bit short and overcrowded with the perch in, especially as you have 3 birds in it..

    😆 i of course meant Dutch Bantam.

     

    Should i remove the perch and give them more room?

     

    They are quite petite hens. I'll post some pics tomorrow. 


  12. 5 hours ago, Cat tails said:

    Looks lovely!

    Just a tip for you, I would keep the food and water to the front of the run, so you don’t have to crawl in to get to it. Also, temperature jackets are nog really needed, unless you are far north and well below freezing.

    We're in the north in Scotland and the hens are about 18-20 weeks so wanted to be sure they were comfortable.

     

    Got them back after driving on horrendous wind, snow and rain.

     

    They are settled in the coop and i saw them fluffing the hay bedding but they decided not to venture out the coop. They are shut in for rhe night and I'll let them out early as I'll be up early for the boxing.

    • Like 1

  13. 31 minutes ago, Peter said:

    I made my dust bath out of plywood 12in by 15in but if I was you I would purchase a washing up bowl which is quite robust and put 2in of equal dry sand and soil. You have probably sorted it by now. Peter 

    Not sorted it yet, I'll get a big bowl on Sunday.

     

    Thanks 


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