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Everything posted by laurmurf

  1. don't let the older ones near your young pullet yet - 16 weeks just isn't old enough to bear up to the potential bullying
  2. I've got the canula and syringe and a wee bit of avipro left. I'd be happy to have a look at her if you want to bring her to my house in Fulford? I could do a crop lavage on mine and show/help you how to do yours, if that would help? PM me if you'd like to arrange something. You can get Avipro delivered really fast from VetUk via Amazon (they do an express postage) http://www.amazon.co.uk/VioVet-Avipro-Plus-raquo-100g/dp/B004FGAV4A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1326924797&sr=8-1 edited to sort out hyperlink
  3. I'm treating one of mine for the same thing at the moment... and it's generally not wildly successful, I have to warn you. The most likely cause is a blockage somewhere at the bottom of the crop, the first stomach or in the gizzard that's preventing the crop from emptying. So you want to try to remove the blockage upwards or encourage it downwards and all the while massaging some nutrition into the chook past the blockage. She's still eating and drinking because she's hungry and thirsty - the blockage is stopping anything getting through. If she was a 'poorly' chook then she'd be hunched over and not wanting to eat. She's not caused this by being greedy. To try to get the blockage up you can try crop lavage: get a biggish syringe, a long canula tube (dog sized) and some avipro solution. insert the tubing into the crop and syringe a couple of hundred mls of avipro into the chook. Hold her upside down and massage her crop to make her 'vomit'. Stop frequently to let her breath. And keep massaging the crop to break up and shift the blockage. If it's long grass she may bring up the grass in her vomit. You'll be able to tell from what comes out of her whether she's already got sour crop (because it will stink) or blocked crop. Keep filling the crop and vomiting her until you think she's clear of the blockage... easier said than done. When you've finished give her a final dose of avipro (and really fill her crop up - 200mls for an average size chook) and then massage her crop for while. This should get her rehydrated as well as trying to get any blockage left shifted downwards. To shift the blockage downwards you can syringe with avipro, or some people recommend liquid paraffin, and massage gently for a good long time. The idea behind the paraffin is to shift the blockage downwards. If you do use this then use a much smaller amount than you would avipro and finish with the avipro so she stays hydrated. I speak from bitter experience: I have lost 4 chooks to this, all caused by eating bedding and blocking themselves up with it. We managed to save one and she passed the compacted bedding and grass in a long snake from her bum. But the others have sadly faded, losing weight and despite my efforts to shift the blockage, which failed, they all died. good luck to you (and to my girl too!)
  4. I agree, Mum, I heard a woman in the supermarket telling her 4-ish year old daughter to 'f - off' last night... heartbreaking.
  5. i'm another one for Flubenvet instead of verm-x; as one kills worms and the other, in theory, prevents them. Different types of worms can afflict a chook and some are extremely small and hairlike and will do more damage than the bigger ones. See the Chicken Vet website for more details (and pictures) of what you are seeking to treat http://www.chickenvet.co.uk/general-health-and-common-diseases/parasites/index.aspx
  6. naughty step is still in use in our house.... oh how we laughed when ED 'The Lurker' had to spend 20 minutes there for being rude to her sainted mummy (1 minute per year)
  7. Just wanted to alert Omleteers who might consider doing this but haven't yet, it is definitely worth it and isn't any hassle whatsoever! I used the template letters on the Martin Lewis Moneysavingexpert.com website ( http://www.moneysavingexpert.com/reclaim/ppi-loan-insurance ) and sent them off to the company I had a loan with. I had some but not all of the paperwork and included that. It took some persistence (in total 3 letters) but I've just heard back from them that they have found in my favour for the loan that I paid off 4 years ago! Even better they found that I had several loans from 1998 all paid off in succession that I hadn't included in my original letter that had also been missold to me so have also been found in my favour. I am getting a cheque from them for lots and lots of mis sold Payment Protection Insurance loans + 8% interest! As I'm about to leave work at the end of my contract and YD is going to university in Sept it's all come at a fantastic time. I would heartily recommend it!
  8. as long as she's not too warm and there is lots of ventilation then she'll be fine. You will really need to take it very slow with the introductions and certainly don't let your other hen anywhere near the newbie while she's got an open wound.
  9. if you can get hold of ivermectin (Eprinex for example) it's a simple few drops on the back of chickens necks and it deals with all the external (and some internal) parasites.
  10. one of my favourite books of all time so am almost dreading watching in just in case... I'm sure I will though!
  11. The last two kitchens we've had have been Ikea - we loved the range of fittings and doors and found them to be excellent quality without costing a fortune.
  12. it may not be ideal but if it is only once a year and they're a 'friendly' flock then i think you can 5 in a cube run with an extension. Actually, depending on size I think you could keep 5 in the cube plus extension relatively easily. I have 9 in my cube and although they free range in their part of the garden everyday, when we go on holiday they have to stay shut in the run. I just put in lots of extra distractions and perches and benches for jumping on and hiding under. They've always been fine when we've got home.
  13. you'll achieve as much, and keep her hydrated, by syringing a good cropful of avipro water into her. If you can get as much into her as you can and keep massaging her crop you will not only break up the impaction but you'll get vital fluids into her too. don't fret about overdosing, you can't really do that with avipro (it's essentially chicken yoghurt) and you will probably find she'll perk up with the rehydration and it may be enough to break up some of the impacted clumps. Depending on what she's impacted with, though, it may be hard going to shift. I have both success and failure with impacted crops.... good luck!
  14. I've had some signs of peritonitis in my birds in the past and it's always been in the hybrids. I don't attribute it to vaccinations or not, I put it down to the hybrids being bred to be laying 'machines' who don't get a few weeks off in winter to give their egg-laying tackle a rest. I am convinced that the main reason pure breeds live so much longer than hybrids is down to their bodies not requiring so much of them to produce endless supplies of hundreds of eggs a year.
  15. I fly to the States quite often, Boston or New York, and I have got the best deals by flying from my (very) local airport - Leeds Bradford - to Amsterdam and getting a connecting flight direct. What extra time you add is covered by not having to turn up at the airport more than 40 mins before the flight and having an incredibly straight forward check in. An Schipohl airport is lovely, even has a museum! I have used kayak, ebookers and expedia to compare cheap flights but have booked via expedia for the last few years. Another idea for hotel booking is using priceline and bidding on hotel rooms. I have used them for the last 4/5 years to get 4* hotels in Boston for about £50 a night.
  16. generally this is a better time of year to buy pure breeds than the spring time, if that's what you are looking for.
  17. you'll only be likely to get vaccinated stock if you buy hybrids or adopt ex-batts (also hybrids). you won't be likely to get vaccinated pure breeds from poultry breeders.
  18. here's another bit of info to bear in mind: 10 of the best burgers in New York: http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2011/nov/08/new-york-top-10-burger-joints New York has burgers for every taste, says Tom Byng, founder of London's Byron chain, whether you want to splash out on a white truffle special, or keep things classic with bacon or cheese Shake Shack - is FANTASTIC Shake Shack NYC Photograph: Alamy Danny Meyer's populist burger shack in Madison Park represents a welcome diversion from his more upscale outfits. There is no inside seating, so you perch on one of the outdoor tables or take away to a nearby apartment or office. The queue builds quickly, so be prepared to wait for up to an hour for the privilege of a Shake Shack hamburger. Why the fuss? Because it provides the perfect hamburger for the everyman – soft, squidgy buns, a thin juicy patty, oozing American cheese. And, at $4.50 for the standard burger, great value. Other good things include crinkle-cut fries, shakes and hotdogs. Shake Shack has now been developed into a franchise, but the original remains the pick of the bunch. • Southeast corner of Madison Square Park, near Madison Avenue and East 23rd St, +1 212 889 6600 , shakeshack.com
  19. my cockerels start crowing at 4am at this time of year and then crow again from 7. I've tried keeping a cockerel in a box in the garage in the pitch dark and he still crowed from about 4am. They aren't totally controlled by the light... sadly!
  20. Don't forget to have an egg cream while you're there!
  21. we put lawn mesh down over the summer (a la Omletina) and it's made a huge difference. We had 4 years of barren and pitted mud and over the summer we grew a lawn and despite free ranging (in a more limited way than we used to) we still have a lawn to take us into 2012. I would heartily recommend it as it saved our chicken future!
  22. I can recommend the youth hostel at Blaxhall near Aldeburgh - we've always used them as bases for holidays when the kids were wee cause we didn't need all the stuff for camping but it had self catering facilities to make it a cheap holiday.

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