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Budgies

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Everything posted by Budgies

  1. Sorry to hear you're having this problem Kelly and I have to say it sounds alarmingly similar to my experience, although my girls were Omlet originals and not ex batts. I had one with peritonitis and the other with a blocked crop and a suspected blockage elsewhere in her digestive tract - we could feel a walnut sized lump underneath her too. We never got a final diagnosis for her and sadly they were ill at exactly the same time and had to be PTS on the same day. I'm beginning to wonder if some virus is causing all this - infectious bronchitis in particular can go to their active ovary and cause peritonitis, but I'd never noticed my girls sneezing and they were vaccinated against it (although I don't know how long the vaccine is active for). I hope you get better treatment with the other vet - not to have heard of EYP is pretty poor in my opinion - many of the ex-batts succumb to this. The only piece of advice I can think to give is reduce treats, because being overweight massively increases the girls' chances of developing peritonitis. If you feed mixed corn/maize/pasta/bread, I'd cut it out for the time being.
  2. What great photos, Ginger looks very pleased with herself! Very pretty with all the pots around the cube too, what a lovely time of the year it is!
  3. Thanks for sharing your story, so glad you got to your hen in time. We've had a forum member lose a chicken that drowned in her pond - please remember if you have ponds/pools to cover or fence them off. CHickens cannot swim and their feathers become water logged and heavy, dragging them down.
  4. Your garden will be fine for three girls if you site your run permanently and let them free range to have access to grass for a while each day. Yes, woodchip would work ok.
  5. Fresh eggs, bottom warm!! Yummy! Most of them come out clean. If you DO rinse, you need to then eat them right away as the shell is porous and by washing them you'll rinse away the protective layer that dries once the egg is laid, allowing microbes to enter the egg. Fresh eggs are best poached, soft boiled, scrambled and fried. For hard boiled eggs you're best off selecting eggs that are a week or so old, so the egg doesn't come away with the shell when you peel them.
  6. I'm going to be different! I always used to err on the side of caution. Chooks can be silly creatures, and chook feathers and wet don't mix well. Damp and draughts are chickens' worst enemies - they can get respiratory illnesses from these conditions really easily. So I tended to keep mine undercover in heavy downpours and if I did let them out for half an hour, I roughly dried them off with a towel/hairdryer if it was chilly weather.
  7. Oh Peaches, I'm so sorry to hear this. How sad for you. RIP little chookies.
  8. There's loads of info around the forum on this - but the advice from the government keeps changing. Personally I wouldn't refrigerate - it kills off the germ in the egg so they don't last for long once taken out of the fridge. Also eggs are best cooked from room temp. so if you do refrigerate them, take them out an hour before cooking. The main thing is keeping them at a steady, cool temperature if possible. They should be stored pointy end down. They'll last three weeks - if you have any older than that, fill a bowl with fresh cold tap water and plonk your eggs in. If any float, they're rotten, so discard.
  9. Hi Andy. My garden is about 40feet by 20 feet and I quickly found I was losing grass by moving the eglu unit around the garden. I've seen lots of different set ups and horse bedding seems to win out - you replace it every few weeks/months. I'd be a bit wary using straw for bedding. Many chooks eat it and it can impact their crops. Technically, chickens roost on the bars in the eglu or cube at night, so don't really require bedding. If you want to throw a handful in their nesting box, the only thing it does is prevent the eggs getting broken as the girls stand to lay, but mine had nothing in their nesting box (because they ate everything I tried to introduce to them!) and I only ever had one broked egg in three years! Grit can also be sprinkled through their run to give them something to scratch for, as it's a normal behaviour. I don't think you'd regret getting chickens!!
  10. So sorry to hear about Maisie, it's heartbreaking losing one of our wee feathery friends. Be kind to yourself, and RIP Maisie.
  11. One of my girls went crazy just before coming into lay and ate loads, making her crop look lots bigger. Eglutine's put some good advice on this thread, don't worry about things too much and see how she is tomorrow!
  12. Morning Nicolaf, sounds like it's a bit difficult to tell what's going on. If she's not got a hard crop this morning and it's feeling empty then you don't need to keep putting olive oil into her - that's mostly to help lubricate an obstruction. My next thought then is have you wormed them recently? Most people on this forum (and their vets) recommend worming regularly (up to four times a year) with Flubenvet mixed into their feed for a seven day course. Whilst there are other wormers, many aren't as efficient, and Flubenvet is proven to work in chickens.
  13. Glad to hear she's eating and drinking a bit now, that's a good sign. Her poos won't be normal for a while I don't expect, esp if she's on meds. I literally used to weigh my chooks, but that's me!! Yes, feeling their breastbone and checking their general condition each day to make sure she's putting on weight if poss, rather than losing loads.
  14. I'm just so sorry for you hon, what an awful thing to happen to your girls. I suppose that you have to focus on the lovely life they've had with you, the wonderful chickeny things they've been able to do since you've had them, which they would never have known otherwise. How's Florence today?
  15. Just to add to Eglutine's experience. My own vet has seen several hens who are regularly wormed with Verm-x who still have worm infestations, and rather worryingly, several of her clients have reported that worming with Verm-x has caused breathlessness in their chickens. It's only anecdotal evidence of course, but my vet said she'd use Flubenvet only as it's been tested so thoroughly on chickens.
  16. What an awful time you're having hon. If it is leukosis, I'm trying to understand how they would have had it when young yet all be having problems so close together now? I feel so sorry for you, wish I had some better advice to offer, but just a hug. ((((())))))
  17. Thanks all, very much appreciate you taking the time to reply!! Lovely to hear your experiences of having 4 girls together.
  18. I think we had a thread on water recently but no-one was certain. 5-10 mls several times a day should be sufficient. If she starts to get very dehydrated her wattles and comb will look shrivelled and dry, so you'll get an indication that she needs more. Can you put a little dish of water in with her and drop a raisin or something yummy in to see if that will encourage her to dabble and drink? Bless her, she's very determined!!
  19. It's lovely to read a thread where people are being open and honest and well prepared about the not so sweet side of hatching. I think you're all very brave. I'm not sure I could ever be brave enough to despatch, so until such times as I decide I am, I'll steer clear of hatching. Love sharing your stories though!
  20. I suspect that if you feed them something with bokashi bran mixed in, they might ignore the meal and eat the bran!! However, many chooks do prefer meal - some people prefer not to feed it because the girls can make a mess of it, but my girls were ok with it and adored it. I suggest that you make any changeovers slowly - chickens are real creatures of habit and it will probably upset them quite a lot if you just switch overnight. Mix some meal in with their pellets initially, then gradually increase the meal to pellets ratio until you're on all meal - over a week or so.
  21. Tom, she looks like she's mixing in well, and Willow is such a pretty name! Still green with envy here!!
  22. There's a protexin especially for small animals like rabbits - I think this must be the one that the poultry brigade use. It will do (more effectively) what live yogurt will do, providing beneficial bacteria to colonise her digestive tract. Is she eating or pooping at all? If she's got a block elsewhere in her intestines, you may find the blocked crop is a secondary feature of a more fundamental problem. I don't think the poultry drink will hurt if you can get some into her. Make sure you keep a close eye on her weight - if she's not eating they lose weight and condition very quickly but all those feathers fool us into not realising!
  23. Hi Nicolaf, welcome to the forum. Sorry you're having problems. She's obviously feeling unwell. When you say you keep coming back to a swollen crop, is that what you think the problem might be? If she has sour crop, she'll feel squishy at the front of her breast, and her breath will be horrible. If not, then two things spring to mind (1) she might be about to lay a soft shelled egg, which makes them feel really ill, or (2) has she laid at all recently? If she hasn't laid lately, and because you say she seems bigger, can you feel her underneath, sort of between her legs and back up the underside of her body towards her vent. Is she feeling hot, fluidy or swollen? Let us know what you find.
  24. As others have said, Ness, keep treats to a minimum. They're like all animals, they can easily get overweight, and that can cause peritonitis amongst other health problems. Green treats are best. I always chopped my grapes simply because my girls wouldn't eat a whole one and there was a bit of head shaking and gaping afterwards the one time Mango did get a whole one down!! I gave them raw broccoli or the occasional cabbage leaf, but lightly cooked would be fine too I imagine. Once again, too much greens can give them the squits, so that's worth knowing! As Clare pointed out, it's the whole maize (corn), bread, potato, pasta kind of treats that do the most harm potentially, so really keep these for very rare occasions.
  25. Dave, it's a great forum, it's like being a detective, you'll get to the bottom of it eventually!! Some people do see small worms (or even large ones) in their girls' poo, but many are invisible to our eyes, or the infestation isn't so bad that you can see them wriggling around. I wouldn't even bother worrying about trying to find a worm before worming. My vets do a service (no idea how much it costs) where they will take a fecal sample from each hen say twice a year (or more frequently if you prefer) and check for evidence of all parasites. I may consider this with my next girls. It means that you don't worm unless you have to. However, a bit of me also thinks maybe prevention is better than cure. Remember that ACV added to water, garlic added to water or food etc, are all old poultryman's tricks - they may be helpful with minimising infestations but they're not going to be as effective as Flubenvet used regularly. Personally I also wonder what effect it has on a hen to change the natural acidity balance of her digestive tract by using ACV. I don't like doing anything to my hens I don't have to - but that's just me!

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