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chrisnrob

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About chrisnrob

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  1. It was me on the original thread with Trumpet who went to Harrogate for a few weeks whilst he was radioactive If you'd like to know more about our experience, I'm more than happy to message, chat, etc... Rob
  2. We're still here too Sadly don't have chickens any longer as Mr Fox took them but will have some more in the future I'm sure. I pop in every so often as the forums are still a good read
  3. Not related to the original message but an interesting story nonetheless... I have a friend who is a jeweller. A lady took a ring into him for it to be enlarged to fit her finger. She said that her boyfriend had brought the ring whilst they were on holiday and that it was white gold and diamond. In order to enlarge the ring, my friend explained that he would need to cut the ring, 'open' it slightly and insert a small piece of white gold to make the band bigger. He quoted accordingly and was asked to go ahead with the work. He'd had his suspicions when he saw the ring but closer examination determined it to be base metal plated with white gold and a cubic zirconia rather than a diamond. He pondered whether to say anything but in the ended decided to go ahead with what he'd quoted on and not say anything to the lady. So, she got what she paid for and was not upset, and her boyfriend didn't get "found out" (if, indeed he knew) and wasn't embarrassed. If at a later stage it became apparent that the ring wasn't white gold and diamond then he could hand on heart say that the work he'd done was what was asked for and had been quoted for
  4. Cats Protection produce a couple of leaflets which have useful information in: http://www.cats.org.uk/documents/catcareleaflets-eg01-gettingacat http://www.cats.org.uk/documents/catcareleaflets-eg02-welcomehome The general advice is to set aside a room for the new arrival which will be completely his and leave the rest of the house for your existing cats. They will feel that their territory has been invaded by a newcomer. If the kitten has access to the whole house right away, then your existing cats will feel that there is nowhere that is 'theirs' any more. It might also be a good idea to borrow a kitten pen / small dog cage for the first few days to contain the newcomer even more - it helps with him getting to know where everything is and not feeling too intimidated You can then start swapping scents - swap food bowls and bedding between the kitten and existing cats, stroke the kitten and then go and stroke the existing cats. This all helps them to recognise that the scent of the new arrival is 'safe'. After a few days you could open the door to the kitten room and allow the existing cats to see him in his pen. Again, this helps them to feel safe and secure as they are in control - they can go close and sniff him and they can walk away without him running after them. After a few more days you could move onto supervised introductions but always allow the existing cats an 'escape route' if they want/need it. Don't, for example be tempted to shut them all in one room together and hope that they will get on as, almost always, they won't If you remember that in the wild (and if given free choice) cats are solitary creatures and don't need company, then you won't go far wrong. Many cats will get on with other cats and enjoy their company in time but in some circumstances, the best you can hope for it mutual toleration. Hope that helps and hasn't put you off?
  5. You may find the following information useful http://www.fabcats.org/owners/cat_flu/info.html It's a very comprehensive set of information so may appear a little 'scary' at first
  6. When Trumpet was diagnosed with hyperthyroidism at the age of 8 we had to give him a tablet every day. He hated it and the procedure involved wrapping him a towel, kneeling over him, prising his mouth open and popping the tablet in. It was stressful for him and us! We considered surgery but opted for radio iodine treatment instead. He was quite young to be hyperthyroid, otherwise healthy and insured (which did, I must admit, make the decision a bit easier). The only downside was that he was packed off to Harrogate for 2-3 weeks as he needed to be in isolation and there's only a handful of places in the UK that are able to do it. Bristol Vet School was closer to us but also about twice the price! They rang every couple of days to keep us informed as to how he was - he was absolutely fine in himself, just radioactive! When we picked him up, his T4 levels were back to normal and stayed that way for the rest of his life (sadly, he died last year aged 13). If the situation arose again, I would have no hesitation in going for the same treatment. If you're interested, this is where he went http://www.bishoptonvets.co.uk/small-and-domestic-animal-facilities.html.
  7. Hmmm - seems very strange. I volunteer for the UK's largest cat charity and certainly in our Branch we try to judge every case on an individual basis. We will home to rented accommodation provided that we can see a copy of the tenancy agreement (or a letter from the landlord) to say that pets are allowed. We won't home a single kitten to a house where there is no one at home for a large proportion of the day. This is as much for the benefit of of the house as it is for the kitten (bored kittens tend to amuse themselves with whatever they can find!). We would home a single kitten if there was already a cat in residence, or if someone was around for part of the day (we have had people come back at lunchtime for the first few weeks of having the kitten). Most times something can be agreed on that suits the kitten and the owners. Each rescue will have its own policies though and we've heard various tales from people over the years who have been refused by other rescues (some allege that one rescue won't home without a cat flap, some that another rescue won't home anything if you work all day, etc). We are full at the moment with kittens and/or pregnant cats and have others on our waiting list to come in and I know that many rescues are in the same position - kitten season is definitely upon us!
  8. I'd echo all of the advice already given. A Feliway plugin and spray can be very useful. It's impossible to say whether two cats will get on with each other and, in my experience, there is no general rule that females get on better with males or vice-versa. If your existing cat *liked* having one cat around then it's quite likely that they will like having another one around. However, the newcomer might not like being round other cats! Tigger was a year old when we got Trumpet and he was six weeks old. Try as he might, he couldn't make friends with her and they lived for 13 years with her tolerating him and him trying to make friends. Tilly was three months old when she arrived and she is a very friendly cat. Within a couple of days she and Trumpet were getting on like a house on fire and curl up and sleep together. Tigger would tolerate Tilly but wouldn't entertain any ideas of playing together or sleeping together. So, Trumpet always wanted to be friendly to other cats and Tigger just tolerated them - whoever they were. If you get another cat from a rescue then they are normally very good at knowing which of their cats will be most suited for what types of home so should be able to recommend a friendly one Take the introductions slowly - if possible set aside a separate room for the newcomer with their food, water, litter and bed in and let them settle in on their own. Then, over a period of days swap scents by stroking one cat then the other (still keeping them separate), swapping bedding and swapping food bowls. Then you can let them see each other but not get at each other - a stairgate of kitten pen can be useful for this. Then you can move on to supervised introductions. Also, the general rule is one litter tray per cat and one food bowl per cat (certainly initially) as they don't like to feel threatened when eating or toiletting. With some cats you can do the whole of the above process in a matter of days, for others it can take weeks or even months.
  9. I think these are what you're looking for: http://heartofenglandltd.co.uk/card_frames.aspx
  10. My lovely new 6th generation Nano arrived last week - very pleased with it! Old one was 2Gb, this one is 8Gb
  11. We lost Tigger to Chronic Kidney Disease (CKD, used to be CRF) last year at the age of 14. From diagnosis until we lost her was a good two years though. It progresses at different rates in different cats and the diet does help. There are others things you can do to help and there is a wealth of information (probably more than you ever imagined!) and a really supportive Yahoo Group (similar to a forum but older and slower LOL) on Tanya's CRF Site: http://felinecrf.org/index.htm The best page to start on is http://felinecrf.org/just_diagnosed.htm There are several other renal diets available and Hills may just be your vet's preference. There's lots of information about diets on Tanya's website (some renal diets are better than others!). Tigger always had Royal Canin Renal food which we found cheapest from PetMeds: http://www.petmeds.co.uk/p-501-royal-canin-clinical-renal-cat-pouches.aspx http://www.petmeds.co.uk/p-502-royal-canin-renal-cat.aspx Tigger mainly had the dry food as she had always eaten dry food and only tended to lick the jelly/gravy off any wet food. Sometimes she'd have a sachet if she went off the dry food for a day or so. They also do a 'Special' version which is supposed to be more palatable if your cat is particularly fussy (Tigger never was!) Feel free to message me if you'd like more information or just a chat
  12. We have a Sureflap microchip one fitted in a uPVC door. The people who fitted our door are only local so I took the flap to them, they put it in a new door panel then came out and fitted the panel into to the door
  13. When Tigger had flea allergy dermatitis, the dermatologist recommended Stronghold rather than any of the other flea products. She seemed to think that it had a better effect on this particular condition...
  14. Just done this and I scored 16. Not sure if I like being "average" Rob
  15. We just did it with O2 who refused the do anything about Chris' faulty phone despite ConsumerDirect and our local Trading Standards telling us that it was up to O2 to fix it. We used the MoneyClaim website and, upon receupt of the court documents, O2 rang us to say that, whilst they completely repudiated our claim, they were prepared to offer us the amount claimed as a gesture of goodwill Admittedly, this was a much bigger company but I say go for it and good luck! Rpb

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