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Everything posted by Beantree

  1. If it' just one hen doing the eating and the shells are strong, would a Bumpa bit stop her breaking the shell open Alisgirls?
  2. Their web site says it cleans the gut lining and that rings alarm bells for me. Perhaps that process could be responsible for internal bleeding in the relatively fragile gut of poultry in some cases. Here's one who won't be using it and I suggest that you try omitting it from the drinking water to see if the poos return to their normal colour Groovychook.
  3. If you see any worms in the poo it is a very bad infestation Beccauk. After administering wormer the worms die giving off toxins that can make them very ill as well. So it is fingers crossed that she recovers. It is important that they are wormed regularly to avoid an excessive buildup. I must add though that some birds build a tolerance to their worm burden and show no apparent ill effects. The free-ranging flock by us has never been wormed and they all seem healthy.
  4. What's this 'Orego Stim' that you are adding to the drinking water Groovychook? I was wondering if that was causing any cumulative effect problems? We add nothing to the drinking water at all as we don't want to discourage drinking as that brings a host of problems in itself.
  5. I haven't any idea Groovychook. Perhaps it's something triggered by the laying? Perhaps someone else on the forum can give some advice? If she is happy it can't be an immediate problem so it will be a case of wait and see.
  6. Sorry to say Groovychook, but in my experience black poos can be a sign of minor internal bleeding which may or may not resolve itself. They can however also result from eating black shelled sunflower seeds as we have a flock here fed on them. Some pick all the sunflower seeds out first, so they do the black poos. So it could also be something pigmented in their diet which one favours. We had green poos from one who picked out all the dried peas from the mixed grain. Fingers crossed for you it is a trivial thing. As I think you know, black 'tarry' poos can be major internal bleeding.
  7. The long thin poos are the result of eating long strands of grass or hay Leeweedon. I think it may be something they do routinely to drag worms from the gut. We have plenty of these on occasion and then none for a while. They have never caused me concern, except to check when they were last wormed. Pleased to hear Dolly is showing signs of improvement. I've stopped giving bananas as they resulted in 'explosive poos'. Some kind of gut reaction which caused them to shoot poo like it came from a cannon and sent it all over the coop walls! Stopped the banana and the poos immediately returned to normal.
  8. Swollen and hot is a problem, but just swollen may not be. We had a Cream Legbar who had a swollen abdomen. She wasn't laying and wasn't unhappy either. One night she realised a huge amount of clear fluid; two dustpans full of wet bedding. The next morning another dustpan full. A week later she started laying. But we have tried treating before with antibiotics. Whilst it has a short term 'cure' it then repeats at ever decreasing intervals and PTS is the inevitable result.
  9. We use Wilco rubber car mats Alisgirls. Slit them at 15mm wide up to 2" from the top and hang them in front of the box. They soon get the hang of getting in and out. We have them fitted to all our coops and have no egg eating problems. The only time we had a problem was when I removed one curtain,only because the cockerel used to panic because one of his girls had gone missing. He's a bright little chap; he can count to three whereas the others can only count to two and don't notice the third missing!
  10. Blackhead is pretty rare in Chickens, usually caught from Turkeys (or wild pheasants I think). I misdiagnosed it once when I started keeping chickens. The whole flock developed black combs and wattles overnight. I panicked and looked it up on the internet and then phoned the vet for an emergency consultation. Couldn't see me for a few hours so I decided to look closer at the chickens. I then tried bathing a comb and found the black just washed off! Turned out they had been eating fallen cherries. The juice had splattered al over their heads and the following soil bath had stuck soil to them. I cancelled the vet appointment and had the embarrassment of explaining my mistake. Sounds like worms are likely Beccauk and it is a good place to start anyway. Vermex subtly changed the wording on their packaging a year or so ago, no longer claiming it to be an effective wormer. But I bet there a still a lot of people using it without realising the change, as we did until someone told us.
  11. Sorry to hear that Libby22. Very upsetting indeed. Need to keep a close eye on Pepper as they do pine for their buddies, some longer than others.
  12. My first thought was the same as Dolly's. But that is an unusual place for Northern Fowl Mite to strike. Usually the first place is the hackles and around the vent so check there as well LindaM. We have an old Buff Orpington with damp dark patches either side of her comb and it is just damp feathers bringing out the underlying dark colour at the roots (which shouldn't be there). The damp I thought is caused by wet feet scratching but I am going to check her properly now anyway.
  13. It's a very difficult thing to stop once started Alis Girls. The only thing I can add to your list is a curtain at the front of the nest box, so the eggs are not in view. Hens will tap their own eggs once laid to check the shell thickness and we had one who pecked holes in the thin ones, which is the point at which egg eating could have started. We made sure she was getting enough sunlight and only layers pellets and the shells thickened and the potential problem stopped. But we have had one hen who laid an egg and ate it immediately, regardless of the shell thickness. In that case it was PTS.
  14. Hello Gongladosh. We had a very bad experience mixing hybrids with our pedigree flock (which also contained some non-immunised Black Rocks). The young and freshly immunised hybrids shed ILT and IB viruses and the whole lot went down with both together. We treated all with Synulox and fortunately didn't lose any, but it was a very stressful 2 weeks. The downsides were egg quality suffered with some, many had repeated ILT flareups and we were £200 worse off with vet bills. This was 7 years ago when live viruses introduced in the drinking water were a new thing for hybrids aimed at the domestic market. We closed our flock and started a separate flock for new pedigree birds well away from them. We never bought hybrids again, although we took some in and added them to the 'infected' flock.
  15. I am a strict follower of forum protocol Eglutyne and if Libby22 asks that question I will answer it.
  16. Hi Valkyrie. It would be the lower beak is longer than the top if their beaks have been cropped to stop feather pecking and cannibalism. If they are reared in poor conditions that's how commercial guys treat them to deal with it. You do say you didn't like the breeder and possibly for good reason. Beak bits are an alternative usually used on game pheasants. Bottom beak can't be trimmed (tongue sits in it) and often the top doesn't grow back properly so they always make a mess eating and drinking -that's my experience with Black Rocks anyway.
  17. He was fine in the end Libby22. Took 3 months to work it out and only because I eventually had symptoms as well. Went onto electric heating for 3 days and he started to recover almost immediately. Turns out Carbon Monoxide alarms activate at 50ppm but sickness from long term exposure is at 30ppm. Chickens are far less tolerant than that; my estimate is 10ppm. He is a house pet and will be 7 this year. I know they get garlic but it is still worth checking the throat for fungal cankers (white lumps). We use chopped onion to counter cankers, which is a Polish remedy. There are two types of fungus, but no point in explaining that yet. We stopped giving ours white maggots when I discovered they can get Botulism (I think it is) from them. It is mentioned in Gale Dumelows book 'Raising Chickens". Because maggots are bred on meat products. Mealworms are OK.
  18. We have a Buff Orpington of the same age with similar symptoms GillC. Checked the ear for mites or signs of infection. Ruled out a sting and now think it might be an allergy to local conifer tree pollen. She is fine, well normal anyway, otherwise. Not the first time we have had a possible allergy problem. We had the same with an Orpington cock and a Cream Legbar hen. They were all about the same age at 5-6 years old. The Cream Legbar developed scaly skin as well which was treated with E45 cream successfully. Anyway they all went back to normal after a few weeks. I'm interested to hear the results of the tests.
  19. Bit of a puzzler this Libby22. Not eating and an empty crop is something we have had before. It has been sour crop and it has also been a mystery. In the latter cases we hand fed ground up rearer pellets mixed with a little water into balls and washed down with more water three times a day. Sometimes they just picked up in a few days as if nothing had happened. The important thing is the water preferably with electrolytes. If they are dehydrated the skin is noticeably wrinkly. The biggest head scratcher came from a case of Carbon Monoxide poisoning due to a faulty wood burner. That also came with total loss of appetite, a purple comb on some days and ruffled feathers as he was feeling the cold. Of course we put him closer to the fire!
  20. I think we have Myco in our Buff Orpington flock Leeweedon. None of the other breed flocks are affected and it only rarely flares up in the Orpingtons; usually during the stress of the moult. We keep them in best condition with good quality feed and never use any water additives as it discourages drinking. Smallholder layers were our favourite. We used Glenthorne vets at Uttoxeter or Tutbury. Usually saw Steve. When we first used them they , like us, new nothing about chickens so we went on a steep learning curve together. Last time we went was 2011 when a consultation was £18. Baytril is the antibiotic of our choice, very rarely used though. It won't cure your Myco but will raise the condition of the bird by tackling secondary infections. A side effect is to strip the gut of digestive flora so 48 hours after the course finishes you will need to give a small amount (1mL) of multi-culture probiotic yoghurt. Can be put on small bread crust squares which they will guzzle. Otherwise her digestive system will be very inefficient and her condition will fall again. Even better is Beryl's Tonic, but it is rather expensive. Best of luck with her.

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