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I get water in my Pro too. I asked customer service and they had me put a water hose on top of the coop and look inside to see where the water was coming in at. They asked me to take pictures and send them in. Then they sent the pictures to a team to let me know what I can do about it. Team decided on my pro I needed to see if the guders were tight and if the top of the pro was level. I’m going to have to have my kids come over to help get it to stop leaking. I sure didn’t expect to have problems with my coop. It’s new! Winter will be here before long and I can see my chickens inside the coop setting right above a tray of ice. It worries me.

No, worming pellets can't be fed to wild birds.

We have 4 ducks, 1 Indian Runner and 3 Cherry Valley. Have recently noticed they are all losing feathers. Any ideas please

I need to replace the lid locking bar on a classic but can’t see it listed under the spares section and see others on here with the same issue say it is discontinued. What can be used ad a substitute? It is rather a vital component.

Surely that is a manufacturing fault and should be covered by warranty? Id ring customer services if I was you. It's a lot of money ad shouldn't need to purchase the jacket to stop this problem.

Yeaterday, two of my four Orpingtons decided to nest in the laying section of the Eglu Cube when the four went to bed at dusk. I’d previously seen all four free ranging only half an hour beforehand. Usually they all happily roost on the rack (I’ve had the Eglu Cube nearly a year). What is confusing me is that somehow the two in the laying area had CLOSED the sliding door! There is no way anyone else has done this as a prank. What is going on? How is this possible?

hi my autodoor time does not advance any suggestions?

Hallo, ich habe die Autofoor seit circa drei Monaten und habe jetzt bereits das dritte Mal die Batterien gewechselt. Die letzte Ladung Batterien hielt gerade einmal vier Wochen, obwohl ich weder WLAN noch Benachrichtigungen anhabe. Das finde ich schon enorm schwach, meine bisherige Tür hielt mit Batterien locker 18 Monate durch. Ich überlege jetzt, die Tür ans Stromnetz zu hängen und scheitere jetzt an der Verbindung mit dem mitgelieferten Adapter und meiner AußenSteckdose. Der Adapter kann aufgrund der Bauweise nicht tief genug in die Steckdose eingreifen, generell zweifle ich, ob der Adapter wetterfest ist. Sieht für mich nicht so aus. Hat irgendjemand hier Erfahrung mit dem Anschluss und kann mir weiterhelfen?

Very pleased to hear that @heggis and thank you for updating.

Popping back briefly with a provisional update. Harriet is doing well! Honestly, I was losing hope. I started following @Beantree's advice after the prolapse had already been out for a week, and after a further week nothing seemed to be improving. But then, she kept the prolapse in overnight. It popped out again and then almost immediately again, but since then - it has remained in! That's now three days. She hasn't laid an egg yet and I suppose that's a big test. But at the moment she's skipping about very happily. Most helpful things (I think): massaging the vent with Manuka honey and gently pushing it back in 3-4 times a day; keeping the area clean; feeding a low protein diet to reduce egg-laying. Possible helpful things: calcium supplement; kefir; canestan (thought she might have vent gleet though this might have just been a consequence of the prolapse). Thank you @Beantree!

I have also been having issues with battery life span. The first set of new batteries lasted less than a week. I tried making changes within the app so it drains less energy, but still, I am about to change it to my 4th sets of new batteries in less than 2 months. I cannot run an extension cord, but considering switching to solar powered. Did anyone figured how to extend the battery life to what Omelet sells it as? It feels stressful and wasteful to have batteries dies so fast and would love to improve this system. Thank you!

Hi, I am interested in buying this if it is still available? I'm in West Dorset.

I use pink prosecco instead of water! Works a treat.

Hello, I’ve got a Omlet Eglu go up run given to me and have now bought a new Omlet go up chicken coop. Unfortunately the 2 attachments to attach the run to the coop are missing and they’re not sold by Omlet as spare parts. Has anyone got these parts being spare and want to get rid off or is there a different way to attach the run to the coop safely? Many thanks 🙏

I have an Omlet Eglu pro coop and 12 ft run. After spending over 4,000$ on those I don’t have another 230$ for the auto door. Can I use a different brand or does it HAVE to Omlet brand??

Eglu Cube Mk2 chicken coop with optional automatic door opener / closer which works on a timer or daylight levels Has been well cleaned out and is in very good condition overall - just a bit of paint flaking off the underside of the metal support frame. We will include a feeder and drinker and some bedding hay. There is no run but we will include a couple of good size rolls of used chicken wire which could be used to make a run. Selling because we don't really have enough space for hens anymore. Collect from Milton by Drumnadrochit near Inverness IV63. Its quite big so you'll need a van or a trailer. £500 or near offer

This morning I witnessed a mother duck stepping on her 3 ducklings, Mallards, by a stream and grassy area in a small city. The mother duck was callous and didn't seem to even notice the ducklings that were trying to huddle up underneath of her. As the mother duck began walking away, 2 of the duckling got up and followed and the third remained behind and struggles to stand upright. I watched for a few minutes and the third duckling never made it back to her mother. After a while of trying to stand and walk, I picked up the duckling and stroked it and it looked like maybe it had a bent wing. I set the duckling back down because it was peeping and trying to get out of my hands. I set the duckling beside the stream and it tried to walk and kept falling over, as if it had lost its balance. It fell on its back and was kicking its feet. It looked like it was stuck in the mud at the water. So I picked it back up and placed it in the water. It was able to stay up but it made its way over to the stream's bank and got out of the water and tried to walk again and was still falling over. I thought maybe it had a hurt foot or leg. I picked it back up and set in in a grassy area and it was peeping and lay and stretched its head out flat in the grass and put its legs and feet out straight behind and stopped moving. A minute later I went to check it, thinking maybe it was taking a rest, and it had gotten stiff. So I picked it back up and began stroking it and it began to peep again and move some and then it started kicking and trying to raise its head. I thought I would find a cardboard box and keep it until I could get it to a wildlife center, that I'd already called, because I was still believing that it was maybe with only a hurt wing or foot or leg. Then the duckling fell limp, closed its eyes, and stopped moving and after another minute, the duckling became stiff and did not open its eyes or move again. So the duckling died in my hands. It was so sad, because this duckling had been walking around just like the other 2 ducklings less than 1 hours earlier. In my opinion, the mother duck stepped on this duckling to the point that it injured the duckling internally, and the duckling maybe had an internal injury or internal bleeding from that. It might have even had a hurt neck. The wildlife center called me back and I let them know the duckling just passed away.

This is such a great discussion! It's clear that many parents are trying to do their best to ensure their little ones are comfortable, especially during cold and flu season. The general consensus here is valuable: a humidifier can certainly help with dryness and congestion in a baby's room. However, keeping it clean is absolutely crucial to prevent mold and bacteria. For anyone still unsure, it's always a good idea to chat with your pediatrician to see if a humidifier is recommended for your specific situation. Thanks for all the thoughtful input!

Our old bantams had layers pellets in their feeder simply because it was easy for us, as that's what the other flocks ate. I've heard the extra Calcium may not be good for them but think that's nonsense- it simply won't be taken up by their system if it isn't required. But we do now feed growers/rearers to the oldies because the protein content is slightly higher and there are a lot of trace elements together with probiotics, without yolk colourants in the growers pellets we buy here (in France). The only grit they sell here is oyster shell, which we don't use because it messes up the Calcium/ Phosphorous balance for laying hens. I bought standard grit over from England 10 years ago and we still have half a bag left. Mixed grain feed is kept to a minimum and only as an early evening scatter fed treat. Too much and they won't eat the pellets before they go to bed and it also has the effect of reducing the overall protein level in their diet. For chickens struggling in a moult we give them a treat of sunflower hearts (with the shell removed) instead. They are very high in protein (40%) which is what they need to grow feathers. We used to buy Smallholder products in the UK and Garvo (I think that was the name) are apparently excellent as well.

Thank you so much for your reply @Beantree! And for your advice. I'm really grateful, I am really stressed out about it and it's such a relief to hear from someone who knows what they're talking about. The prolapse came out about a week ago. That's a long time, I think. However, I will try doing as you say and holding it in. She is on a low protein diet and I thought she'd stopped laying but then she did lay again yesterday which was a disappointment. Anyway, I will do what I can and maybe, maybe, she will be OK. I hope so. Thank you again!

The Manuka honey acts as a lubricant and an anti-bacterial and that's what we use. I wouldn't bother with the salt water now because it may wash the honey off. The most important thing is to push the prolapse back in and hold it there for as long as you can. This means leaving your finger in the vent for a while, moving it around to get the prolapse back into its original position. It may come out again, usually when she poos, so repeat the process. Success is most likely if the prolapse is returned quickly. I have assumed she isn't laying at the moment? If she is, the way to stop her is to feed a low protein diet of wheat only and keep her on that for several weeks. She certainly won't recover on her own. We have successfully treat one hen who was quite young and she went on to lay again and live for many years, but an older hen or one left untreated for too long may not be so lucky. We have had two other 'apparent prolapses' which were actually large tumours pushed out of the vent, so no cure there unfortunately.

Hi everyone, I’m new to bantams and could really use some advice about feeding. I have two hens: A 4-year-old bantam who is currently very broody and not laying. A 5-year-old bantam who is moulting right now and currently not laying. Their previous owner always had layers pellets (which they aren’t interested in) available all day but also gave them a corn/seed mix on the side. I’ve read conflicting things about whether older or non-laying hens should still be on layers pellets, since the extra calcium might not be good for them if they’re not producing eggs. I want to make sure they’re getting the right nutrition, especially since one is eating less because she’s broody, and the other needs protein for feather regrowth. So my questions are: Should I keep them on layers pellets, or switch to growers/all-flock feed with oyster shell on the side? How much corn/seed mix is appropriate (if any) for bantams that aren’t laying regularly? Are there any UK brands you’d recommend that would be better suited to older bantams in this situation? Any advice or personal experience would be really appreciated. I’m not bothered about getting eggs from them, I just want the best for my girls! Thanks in advance!

Hello! My two-year-old hybrid Harriet has a prolapsed vent. I am trying to treat it but I think I'm getting it wrong. I have separated her from the other hens, although she is still outside. I have been washing her vent with salty water and rubbing Manuka honey into the prolapse and around the vent, this is quite messy... I've also given her the odd squirt with Gentian Violet. The prolapse is about the size of a walnut, pink and not bloody. Harriet is very happy and eating and drinking normally. She doesn't like the washing and the honey though. I have been doing this for seven days now. Today I tried pushing the prolapse back in but it came out again after a few minutes so I left it. My husband thinks I should leave her alone now and her body will heal itself if it can. Is he right? Is there something else I should be doing? I am in Belgium and there aren't any vets near me who seem to know much about treating chickens (they are kept here for their eggs not for pets). Thank you for any advice you can give me!

I'm so sorry to hear about your elderly cat. It's so worrying when our pets have health issues, especially with breathing difficulties. It’s a sign that something is not quite right. While it's great to hear from others in this forum, the most important step is to get your cat checked by a vet. A vet can properly diagnose the problem and give you the right treatment plan. I'm wishing you and your cat all the best.

Hello! I have two litter boxes / furniture that you no longer seem to have listed. A top entry and one that looks like Maya only taller. If anyone else has, what are you using for liners? Have you replaced? Thank You!