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We have a large Omlet chicken coop and an Omlet large Eglu Cube with a manual door for sale. We also have an electric automatic coop door, brand new but never fitted. The total cost of this package would be over £2,000 (see pictures) We are asking £1,000.

Could simply be the daylight hours and the air temperature?As more mature birds they won't lay unless the conditions for rearing chicks is right. If they are not laying their energy requirements are a lot lower, so no mad dash to fill themselves with food. Expect them to restart in Spring.

We have three white KCs about 2-3 years old. They layed fine every day up to about August and then stopped and started moulting. This we expected but they have finished moulting and not restarted laying. Furthermore they just sit in their run all day, lathargic. Before, they used to dash out in the morning and spend the day grazing and foraging. Any advice welcome. Jon.

Not sure if you have it working now. We had to experiment a bit with light level. It works great for some but we had a challenging environment- the coop would often be moved under trees making it difficult for the light sensor. Time-based can be tricky in the autumn/winter as the clocks move so fast you are forever tweaking it. In the end we settled on Alexa control - I'm not sure if you have one but you can actually get it to open and close your coop. You can do this at certain times, or even better, relative to real local dawn or dusk. We have ours open/close about 30mins after dawn and dusk. In your case, you could make Alexa open it later in the morning, but shut it at dusk. Using Alexa solved the light level niggles for us.

Can you make some from wood? You have a pattern so it should be straightforward. Don't forget to radius the top corners where they stand: 3mm will be enough.

Does anyone know where I can get some new roosting bars for the Classic eglu? Mine have cracked so need to replace them but Omlet no longer supply them.

Good morning I'm looking for some advice really. I have an 11 month hybrid hen who went off her food about two weeks ago. She was interested in porridge (wet layers feed) treats and free ranging. But ignoring pellets. She stopped laying around this time. I switched one of my feeders over to layers mash, same brand as my pellets and she seemed to eat more but still not at her baseline. I've been checking her over. Her crop seems sluggish, but is emptying most mornings. No sour crop. No lice. Recently wormed (preventative). She's very slim, prominent keel. She's never been a large lady. She almost looks like a bit like a runt. Very small for her breed, short neck. Her droppings having always been on the runnier side, with firm ones in between but currently the only way I can describe them is like baby poo. Normal colour. Her abdomen is soft. No signs of water belly. No signs of bullying. She is the towards bottom of pecking order. But have multiple feeders and water dispenser and I've never seen her been chased away from food. When treats are at hand she's first there to take and will even tackle my top hens for some. Over the past week she's been having some private dinning time with extra protein Have access to grit and shell. They are currently have poultry multivits in water. She started molting about 4 days ago and it's a very heavy molt dropping feathers like no tomorrow. Some of my other hens are molting but slowly. This morning her crop still has feed in. Not solid, I could feel grit. She hasn't eating (been out for about 45 mins) and has drunk loads. So I guess my question is, is this all do to her molting ? I've read and experience hens going off layers feed prior and during a molt. But I've also just read a heavy molt can be induced due to malnourishment? Drinking more can also be sign of molt as can sluggish crop, so I've read. She is slightly off, but withdrawn. But yesterday was free ranging. Will let out to free range in about a hour or so after school run. She is a gentle hen and likes cuddles and fuss but obviously doesn't want that at the minute I'm assuming as new feathers are painful and she feeling rotten. Is her crop slow because of the molt? Or is this something else? Would a crop bra help (no obvious pendulous crop). Any suggestions/ recommendations/ thoughts. I appreciate these are hard questions to answer. Abit of a chicken and the egg situation? I've gone down a lot of rabbit holes trying to figure this one out. This hen is a precious hen as she is my 7 year olds and he loves her dearly. Additional information: flock size, 7 hens. 3-4 molting. Eggs have reduced in keeping with seasons. UK based. Free range daily. Thankyou

2 nights running, 1st night the neighbour wakes me up as the chickens are squarking. I had stupidly fallen asleep with them in the pen but not locked into their bed! Appears whilst they were out in the day a fat hedgehog had made its way in their enclosure and I didn’t check properly before putting them away! Water had been knocked over drenching one chicken and the other had lost quite a few feathers! Girls put away and hedgehog told where to go! night 2, partner comes home from work 0330 to find the same fat hedgehog butting and scratching at their closed bed! Partner picked hedgehog up and walked it 5 mins to the neighbourhood allotment. No doubt he will be back! any deterrent ideas?

Hi, I’ve just got three gorgeous hens for our school and they are much loved by the children. we have the Eglu Go Up and want to ask about bedding in the coop. We’ve been using sawdust in the area in the corner but not in the grated area. Is this correct?

Hallo sommersprosse1986, Sobald die Temperatur für mehrere Tage unter Null geht, wird die Tränkenheizung aktiviert. Liebe Grüße

Hello 😊 I have a used Omlet go up complete with recently installed automatic door. great condition, open to offers. Collect only from NG19. thank you 🐔

I've just received an autodoor for my new wooden chicken coop. I'm in the UK. The autodoor will be located on the west side of the coop. I'm wondering whether it would be best to install the light sensor on the south side of the coop. I'm hoping to use the light sensor to control open and close. I haven't looked carefully at the manual to see if I can set the closure to sensor and the open to a timer, or if I have to use the timer or sensor for both. What I'm hoping to do is keep them in a bit longer than strictly necessary in the morning, as we have had one early morning attack, but close it using the sensor at night, waiting for it to be dusky enough to be confident that everyone is in. So my question is... 1) It seems logical to place the sensor on the south side of the coop, for the most consistent light reading in the morning and evening. Does this seem right? 2) I've found some 15-year-old forum entries talking about how the light sensor is very unreliable. Is this still the case or have things improved? (I know I'll find the rest of this in the manual but if you're feeling really helpful please feel free to chime in.) 3) Can I choose timer/sensor separately for open and close or do I have to make a single choice? 4) Can I choose a different light level for open than for close? This would be my ideal setting, allowing me to open a bit later in the morning while closing late enough at night to ensure that everyone is in. Thank you!

Hi this is a free service for people with chicken coops and free range chickens, I am a retired gentleman from Mapperley Nottingham, I control vermin using low powered air rifles using a day and a night rifles with night vision, thermal imaging, ultra quite , insured to £12 million 30 plus years experience , if you have vermin issues I will be able to help.

My solution would be to separate the door systems from the mains whilst you are out and couple them to a 240V inverter and 12v battery setup. We had so many power cuts in the Dordogne it was impossible to leave incubators running and then go out, so they were coupled to aforesaid arrangement first and reconnected to the mains when we returned. To put the frequency of power failures there into context, we received a rebate on our standing charge which corresponded to a week without power in a month!

Hi! We've had a number of power cuts recently, and I've noticed that our two smart Omlet doors show a "Door Faulted" state each time (they are only powered by mains) and I need to manually perform a calibration by pressing & holding a button on the control panel for a few seconds. It doesn't appear to be possible to do this via the App, so if we are away from home our chickens and ducks are stuck inside until someone can visit to perform the calibration. Is there a way to avoid this, or at least trigger the calibration remotely? Thanks, Dean

Wir haben den Omlet Cube MK2 mit absperrbarem Auslauf und zusätzlichem Auslauf. Wie macht ihr das mit dem Wasser? Bei uns gibt es schon raue Nächte, in denen es sehr kalt ist. Wenn die Hühner früh aus dem Stall kommen, könnte das Wasser gefroren sein, bzw. wenn ich in der Arbeit bin, könnte das Wasser wieder gefrieren. Habt ihr in eurem Auslauf einen Tränkenwärmer?

The food and water always stay outside, never inside because there isn't enough room and they don't need them at night. They will go inside and don't need to eat or drink until they wake up in the morning and you let them out. So it is important you let them out when it is light enough to see and lock them away safe when they have gone in at night.

I am hoping to get 6 rescue hens on Sunday, I have an eglu cube and just a large run. I want them away overnight so they are safe but the feeder and water bowls are too big inside so will put them outside. Why do I put in for overnight there doesn’t look much room!

If your new door is not working you should not settle for a different way of using it but contact Omlet Customer services as there is obviously something wrong with the control unit.

I’ve just bought and installed mine and had exactly the same problem. Door kept opening and closing and wouldn’t stop during calibration, I had to remove batteries to stop it. I tried again and it seems to recalibrated ok but then said the door was blocked when it wasn’t. i then tried to set closing and opening times and it won’t let me adjust the hour, only the minutes, so will have ot try just using light sensor and see how that works! Quite frustrating…

Hi, is this still available? Is the automatic door included in the price? Thanks.

Aaannddd - back again! With trepidation, because the very day after I posted last time, Harriet's prolapse recurred. I couldn't see any reason why it had suddenly happened after four days. It then continued to pop out for the next 24 hours, very disappointing for both Harriet and me as we went back to the honey and pushing it back in. But then, it stayed in. Two days later, she laid an egg - and it stayed in! Since then she has been laying sporadically, and no prolapse. A few days ago I put her back with the rest of the flock and she is happy as can be. It's all a bit of a mystery to me, I think that the honey and pushing back in helped, I also gave her lots of extra calcium as I read a calcium deficiency can be connected with prolapse. As for the rest, who knows? Thanks again @Beantree!

I am having the same issue with our auto door as well. We’ve had ours for almost a year but only in the last few months have we had issues with the batteries only lasting a few days.

Hi , I’ve just become a hen mum and got 2 bantam pekin hens and two silkies . Me and my daughters are made up with them and after a week in coop and run we started to introduce them to the back garden to roam free . For now they are just starting to come out of the run and walk around . Tonight to my surprise one of my Pekins flew just over a metre twice as she was spooking herself. mum worried they will try and fly over the 6 foot fence next door . Do silkies fly too ? Should I clip there wings ? Really want them to free roam when we are at home .

Hi Our Eglu Cube is for sale. It was in good working order when we dismantled it. Fastenings included. No run included. Pick up is in Cornwall. (Otherwise a courier like pallet hire.) Cheers