My eco solution to rat problems

[eggmayo]

Hi,

I'm going to be starting beekeeping this year. I've joined my local association, been on a taster course and I'm doing the extended course with practicals starting in April. For Christmas I got a cedar flat pack National hive as a present (lucky me-the hints paid off!) from Thornes.

 

I'm wondering whether I should put any wood preserver on the outside parts of the hive or not. I don't want to do anything that might risk upseting my bees, but want to take care of the hive. I know that there are "bee safe" wood preservers that can be used on the outside parts, but I'm still nervous of using them. Has anyone any experience (good or bad) of using wood preservers on hives?

 

Also I read somewhere (can't remember where) that it's best to just use glue to put a hive together, as nails rust easily. The flat pack came with both nails and glue and the instructions say to use both. Anyone got any views on this?

 

Thanks for any advise. I can't wait to get started.

[Olly]

I'd use nails ... I'm not sure glue would be enough, all the hives I've seen are nailed as far as I recall.

 

I wondered about putting preserver on mine, but didn't get round to it in the end and I must say it's not showing much sign of wear despite having been through a winter - the cedar is really long-lasting. I read somewhere that you can put linseed oil on, that would certainly waterproof it.

 

I wish you joy of putting your hive together, I'm not DIY-savvy and it took me quite a while, a lot of bashed thumbs and bent nails and I STILL managed to put it together wrong! Much easier if you have a hive to see as a pattern - no doubt people with woodworking skills knock them together in no time, but I'm not looking forward to building my second one (I hope) this year!

[Guest]

I drill pilot holes, countersink and screw all my hives together. At one time it gave me the opportunity to change (as I did) from bottom bee space to top bee space. Long screws actually pull the joints together, nails only hold it, especially when into end grain. PVA glues ideally need to be pulled tightly together for a good joint (it is a thin film adhesive, so will not have strength if not in good contact across the joint faces). I also finish the assembly with some screws 'on the tosh' to reduce any chance of the joint pulling apart.

 

I use the clear cuprinol preservative anywhere and everywhere. Most of my hives have some softwood parts (standard brood to 14 x 12 conversions). Polyhives don't 'breathe' and don't suffer from condensation problems either. There is a reason why wood 20mm thick can do. It is called lack of insulation/ventilation.

 

I put my boxes together on a flat floor and make sure of contact all round the edge while constructing. When diagonals are the same, the box is square. Most flat packs are easy;just the odd one (I buy seconds) might need extra care to ensure complete compatibility with my other boxes.

 

Regards, RAB

[MedusA]

Like Olly, I had "fun" putting together my first flat-pack hive last year. I plan to get another this year, in anticipation of getting another colony.

 

I didn't use preservative on my current hive as I believe cedar has natural preservative qualities, but it is something I would consider in future, especially if I was to make some parts using softwoods.

 

Screws are a good idea, RAB. I didn't think to do otherwise than use the nails provided with the kit. Any particular ones you would recommend?

[Old Speckled Hen]

Our flat pack came yesterday and DH is looking at decking screws as they don't rust Depends on the length though.

[chickenanne]

When diagonals are the same, the box is square.

Regards, RAB

 

Can I jsut add: check the box is square before screwing it together!!!! I know, "Ooops, word censored!"ody would be dim enough to make that mistake, surely?

 

Not that I speak from bitter experience or anything....

[Olly]

 

I was just amazed when I had managed to bodge mine together, that the lid fitted!

[Guest]

Any particular ones you would recommend?

 

Many moons ago when I was making windowsdoors, stairs, etc. The owner new no better than to use the cheapest. Posidrive for ease of construction, but not necessarily so for later removal when the head had been burred or filled!

 

We changed to Reisser screws and although more expensive, were much more satisfying to use. Coated so they were easy to screw in and the heads were properly hardened for screwing tight without the driver tips slipping. Little corrosion problem and I can probably easily remove them ten years on. I don't always use Reisser now, but always use good quality coated fixings.

 

Length - 60, 70, 75 mm into end-grain. 3.5 or 4.0mm are the usual ones to hand. I often align with shorter screws and finally fix with longer/thicker, if adjustments are needed. I know mine are overkill but when together they stay together. The 'quite a few' exta pence for screws is worthwhile.

 

I use sash cramps when constructing, have two or three electric screwdrivers/drills available if needed and as I said earlier, the most important thing is that they are made flat on a floor or similar - a rocking super is a pain and will be forever glued on with propolis. Flat packs should go together fairly true, but there have been some that needed extra attention to get them completely flat.

 

The screws 'on the tosh' are always added after the box has been constructed and checked for square.

 

I don't make too many and when made they need to stay made for a long time.

 

Regards, RAB

Edited February 4, 2010 by Guest

[MedusA]

Thanks RAB.

 

(Goes off to look up Reisser screws)

[eggmayo]

Thanks for all the really useful tips. OH is going to be busy this weekend, after a trip to the local DIY store to get some screws He'll get his reward when there's enough honey for him to make some mead. Not told him yet that it might be a few years yet