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Thinking of hatching some eggs!

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can you give me any tips???

 

I have the basic information but what incubator and best brooder (for inside) would you recommend? Do I need anything else?

 

Once eggs have hatched do they then go in the brooder? how long would they stay in brooder for? Best place to get fertile eggs? I'm in cheshire.

 

Thanks in advance and sorry for the stupid questions I just want to make sure I understand everything before I go for it!

 

And (nearly forgot the most important question) what would I do with any cocks! my neighbour is the neighbour from hell.. I wouldn't be able to keep any.

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If you can be around three times a day to turn it I would go for teh Octagon 20 Eco without the auto turn (for cheapness) its hexagonal so instead of turning the eggs you turn the inccy on to one of its sides then bvack again at the next turn (so like a rocking effect)

 

Its not much more than the 7 models and will hold its value well

 

Def dont get a Covatutto 7 if the inccy will be in view, the lightbulb in it flashes on and off all the time (its supposed to) and in the course of 21 days this can drive you a little crazy to say the least!

 

The chicks stay in the inccy for 8-24 hours after they have hatched to dry out fully, they get moved to a brooder (indoor rabbit cage is ideal or a wooden trunk with a grid wire top) where they need to stay under a heat lamp or electric hen for at least 6 weeks (if in the summer you can tail the heat off after 4 weeks or so gradually) in this weather I wouldnt put them outside till 12 weeks or so, in the summer 7-8 weeks is fine

 

You will then need to move them to a secure coop and run - not with adult birds - do not underestimate the space you will need - 6 little chicks need more space when they are bigger - obvious i know but I certainly didnt take this in to account the first and second times I hatched, they can be gradually introduced to adult birds from about 18-20 weeks

 

Silkies are very hard to sex so you will need somewhere to house all the chicks until they are 20 weeks or so and the boys can be dealt with - basically the earlier you can sex your chicks the less room you will need to find as unwanted ones get older

 

As for the cockerels - genuine rare breed quality cockerels may well find homes but you will have to go it to this on the assumption that they wont find homes (unless you def have someone who can take them) You cant really give Silkie cockerels away for example where genuine proper Frizzles may find homes

 

You can get autosexing breeds or sex linked breeds where the boys are a different colour at hatch and can be culled before you get too attached. Another option is to get a utility breed and arrange for someone to take the cockerels for meat (or do it yourself)

 

I'm afraid that I take a very dim view of anyone sending lone cockerels off to market to an uncertain fate - its the cowards way out as far as I am concerned so PLEASE do think very carefully about this before you embark on hatching

i

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I agree with everything redwing says - you really need to think about cockerals before you start - you certainly cannot rely on anyone taking them off your hands. We have had a few batches of meat birds (after OH went on a training course in dispatching humanely) and that will be the fate of any of my pure breed cockerals, unless one is particularly stunning - I have a couple of friends with bigger flocks, with cockerals that might be interested in a good bird.

 

Good luck - it is great to do, but you really need to be prepared in advance.

 

Tracy

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I agree with everything said :)

 

I rehomed the cockerels I hatched, but went on a dispatch course first so I knew I could have done it if needs be.

 

Have a look on the Practical Poultry forum or a local breeder for hatching eggs :D

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