Solving Omlet Smart Auto Door Timing Issues with Alexa Routines

[The Dogmother]

Soooo, I have a lovely oak, Victorian front door; last year, on advice I treated it with Danish Oil (no colour) sanding down between coats, and it ended up with a lovely slightly satin finish.

 

What I didn't know is that Danish Oil is water soluble, so as soon as a bit of rain caught the door, it started to go sticky, and eventually ran down the door. My quandary now, is what to use as an alternative finish.... a carpenter friend has advised to rub it down, and re-apply the Danish Oil, but use a cloth and rub it into the wood instead of brushing it on. I am reluctant to do this, as I think that I might end up with the same problem when it gets wet.

 

I have bought some satin varnish, and one alternative is to rub it right down and apply a few coats of this.

 

The door gets all weathers, but is in a 2ft deep open porch, so only gets a bit of rain if it blows in.

 

Advice please

[Ursula123]

We use Danish oil on wooden kitchen worktops, several coats and rubbed with wire wool between each coat.Always applied with a cloth ( lint free) and never brushed on. Never had a problem with it going sticky or water damaged as I am sure customers would complain if this happened. We do recommend that it is re treated every three months with just a single coat.

I am happy to ask OH when he gets home this evening if he can suggest any other product - he is a carpenter/joiner by trade.

[Olly]

I use Danish oil on my kitchen worktop (not often enough though!) and it's water-repellent once applied, I rub it in with a cloth. I used it on a second-hand teak garden table very successfully last year too (applied with a brush) so I'm surprised you've had this outcome. I'll be interested to read what others say. My front door is varnished but it faces into full sun for part of the day and it's blistered, so I'd love to find a better solution.

[Cinnamon]

I use Danish Oil on my oak floors, which I mop too - never had a problem with streaking or stickiness.

Very odd!

[sjp]

are you sure it was proper Danish oil that you used as it's supposed to be made from Tung oil or Linseed oil or a blend of both. Linseed oil is most defiantly not water based

it could be that it reacted with what ever other coating were on the door already as oil finishes are best applied to untreated wood

if it's a victorian door that's never been striped then and is/was varnished then said varnish will be shellac based and the best way to get that off old wood is to have it c dipped or sand blasted and then oil it

[Grandmashazzie]

I also used oil for front door,it was newly hand made for our Victorian house and never had any problem. I treated it six monthly with a cloth. I loved that door. When we moved the new owners painted it white.

[Ursula123]

OH asked if it was proper Danish oil as there are some poor substitutes on the market, true Danish oil is not water soluble and it is best to buy from a builders merchant and not a DIY store. He advises like your carpenter friend against varnish as if this gets water under or sun damage it will blister and look unsightly.

[The Dogmother]

Yes, I checked and it was proper, uncoloured Danish Oil. I can only assume that it was down to user error, and I should have rubbed it on with a cloth rather than brushing it on I think that I'll give it another chance, and rub it all down again with wire wool, and re-oil it using a cloth and the approved method.

 

It's a beautiful door, and has previously been dipped, so there wasn't any residue on it when I started.

 

Thanks all for your advice

[sjp]

after you've rub it down clean the surface with meths before you apply the oil it'll remove any grease and oil residue and dust with out lifting the grain or leaving any of it's own residue plus it'll dry a lot quicker than any thing else

another thought the doors not teak is it? as that needs a different oil i.e teak oil

[The Dogmother]

Thanks for that tip sjp - no,it's deffo oak.

[chickencam]

We use Danish oil on our kitchen table and it doesn't mark with damp cups etc. Always sand down first then rub the oil in with a cloth and rub in well, hard work but well worth it. We stripped a previously waxed desk last year and did the same it came up beautifully and repels YD's art work.

[sjp]

Thanks for that tip sjp - no,it's deffo oak.

in that case I don't think it was the way that you applied it that was the problem from your description it reads like it's reacted with something on the wood that's caused the oil to emmulsefy the most likely thing is a detergent or soap hence the meths to clean down the other option is the oil isn't right i.e. not what it says on the can I'd by inclined to either get some from a different supplier/maker or get an off cut of oak and do a test sample before doing the door again, certainly wouldn't do the job again mush before June it's still to damp over night and that could cause problems with oil

We fitted an oak door and frame about 30 years ago in a church made from re-purposed church pews that were about 140 years old that I oiled not sure which oil it was just know it was a Shell oil as most were back then, but to my knowledge has never been redone to this day and that door is still going strong