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ClaireG

Wooden Kitchen Worktops Care And Cleaning.

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Where we are moving to has solid oak kitchen worktops. As it's a rental property, i'm even more paranoid about doing something to them that i shouldn't :anxious:

I've read about oiling them. Do i need to do this? How often and whats best to use?

Have also read not to use harsh cleaners etc. What do you use?

Have bought some trivets to use.

Any other tips etc?

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I don't have these anymore but I think they are lovely.

I used to use boiled linseed oil thinned 50/50 with white spirit when water dropped on the worktop stopped beading.

Wash the top with some soapy water, rinse off and when dry apply a three or four thin layers of the oil mixture. I found I had to do this about every three months. If you mark the wood badly it is very simple to sand down to unmarked wood and re-treat and it looks as good as new.

Trivets are a good idea and don't be tempted to use your worktop as a large chopping board.

Hope this helps

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To a great extent, it depends on what finish has been put on already. If, for instance, it has been varnished, applying an oil finish is going to do no good whatsoever (although it'll also not do any harm). Realistically, until you get that question answered, you can't do much at all over and above a normal wipe down after use with a damp cloth (and perhaps a little soap if you've spilt something greasy). Whatever finish was chosen, though, you should be able to use it pretty normally; clean it as you would any other table, don't cut stuff on it without a chopping board, don't put seriously hot stuff down on it without a mat or trivet in between.

 

Taking up the discussion from the other side, though, gives a bit of a better understanding. Oak is a fairly sturdy wood, so will take a reasonable amount of punishment. However, if you stick something in it, it'll still take a dent just like any other wood, and if you burn it, you'll need to plane a reasonable amount of wood off to get back down to unburnt material. As far as finishes are concerned, wax is soft, and doesn't really provide the wood with an impermeable barrier, so isn't really suitable for kitchen work surfaces. Varnishes are a bit of a moveable feast, but are very good at sealing the wood, so are the most likely finishes you'll encounter (two-pack epoxy varnishes, where you mix varnish and hardener together just before applying, are generally both the toughest and the best). Oil finishes look the best and are reasonably protective, but require extra coats periodically. Moreover, whilst in practice it's unlikely to be an issue, many oil finishes (particularly linseed-based ones) wouldn't pass the UK Articles In Contact With Food Regulations, since linseed is poisonous (though I'd seriously doubt that, once dried, it'd cause any issue at all).

 

If you find you do have an oil finish, and want to apply another coat or two, I'd suggest something like this one from Rustin's. Other than that, I'd just clean the surface from day to day as you normally would, then leave any gradual deterioration over time to the landlord as a matter of reasonable wear and tear.

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I inherited wooden worktops when I bought my house, I think they are beech. They look lovely but I would never choose them if I were planning a kitchen! I oil mine (not frequently enough) with tung oil/Danish oil, it's not difficult to do although it smells horrible for a few hours, the difficut bit is clearing everything off the worktops first! :oops: I usually rub any marks with sandpaper and then clean with white spirit before applying the oil.

 

I've managed four years with no burn marks or cuts - I have several of those glass worktop savers, and I really recommend putting one of those next to the cooker, and next to or under the kettle because those are the areas where you're most likely to spill things. The key thing is not to leave any spillages, wipe them up straight away.

 

I had a big group of friends kindly help me to move in - the next morning, I discovered someone had put a red wine bottle down on the worktop and it had left a mark. Watch out for tins as well, I wouldn't leave anything standing on the worktop unless it's glass/plastic because metal often leaves a mark (not immediately, but after a few days). Red cabbage is another dangerous one!

 

I don't want to make it sound too difficult, it becomes second nature to wipe things, not leave things standing etc - and hot cups of tea and the like are no problem, it's only really hot things from the oven or hob that I wouldn't risk. If it is an oil finish do keep on top of it, because the longer you leave it, the more coats it needs to bring it back up to standard.

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I think the key is not to stress too much about them - I know it's different when it's not your house, but I've adopted a fairly relaxed attitude to mine... they look better with a bit of wear... or so I keep telling myself :wink:

 

Absolutely. I just got a bit paranoid about cleaning mine when they were new.

 

Moreover, whilst in practice it's unlikely to be an issue, many oil finishes (particularly linseed-based ones) wouldn't pass the UK Articles In Contact With Food Regulations, since linseed is poisonous (though I'd seriously doubt that, once dried, it'd cause any issue at all).

 

 

I use it on my hive woodwork.................and so do most of my BKA and "Ooops, word censored!"ody has poisoned their honey yet

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Moreover, whilst in practice it's unlikely to be an issue, many oil finishes (particularly linseed-based ones) wouldn't pass the UK Articles In Contact With Food Regulations, since linseed is poisonous (though I'd seriously doubt that, once dried, it'd cause any issue at all).

I use it on my hive woodwork.................and so do most of my BKA and "Ooops, word censored!"ody has poisoned their honey yet

Precisely. I think the risk is purely theoretical, but it has been something of a talking point amongst woodworkers for some time, especially amongst those who make kids' toys.

 

I think the argument provides a fairly close parallel to the debate about aluminium cookware. Sure, if you leave some food festering in contact with it (aluminium or linseed oil finish), you may get something that's not too good for you leeching out after a while, but levels under normal usage are probably miniscule. Nonetheless, I have to point out that that's only my (non-expert) opinion.

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I use method multi surface spray on our wooden work tops. A wipe with a damp cloth.

 

I oil it with Danish oil every ......... months. (Have done it twice in 5 years) It does need doing again.

 

Don't stress over it. OH insists that the odd cut marks in the wood weren't made by him, so I must have a word with the hens about preparing their salads without a chopping board.... :wink: The marks/cuts come out with a gentle sand.

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We use Danish oil on our wooden worktops too. I seem to remember being told you couldn't have varnish on a kitchen worktop because ...i'm not sure why, but it just sticks in my mind (no pun intended!). They are much more forgiving than you would think , the real no-no is hot pans without a trivet...but who would do a thing like that :whistle:

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