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Calamity Jane

Error of judgement re flea control

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I have been using Bob Martin flea preventative drops on my dog for the last couple of months. I chose these because they were a quarter of the cost of my usual method ( Frontline ). Oh my - how silly do I feel now.

Dog has fleas !!!!

Had to spend over £40 yesterday on stuff to rid dog and HOUSE ( !!!!!!!!!!) of nasty critters. :shock:

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The only Bob Martin flea control that is any good is Bob Martin Double Action Spot On. It actually contains the same ingredients as Advantage. A lot of their products are 'repellents' and 'repel' or 'discourage' fleas. They don't kill them at all. Some are very dangerous to use in households with cats.

 

Make sure that you use a veterinary strength spot on plus a veterinary strength spray for the house - and regularly. It can take 6 months to get rid of them in the house, even with the proper sprays. Don't forget to treat the places that the dog spends time like cars, caravans etc. Vaccum well and bash out sofa cushions first as the vibrations disturb the little critters and makes them easier to kill.

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How do I know if they are in the carpets - I think she has prob had the fleas for 2 weeks max.

 

They will be in your carpets etc, for every flea that you see on your dog, there will be 200 eggs in your house :shock: The eggs hatch into larvae that burrow deep into carpet and crevices as they like the dark and quiet. Eggs are produced every 5 days. After 7-18 days, flea larvae pupate. They spin a protective cocoon around themselves and develop into adults.Inside the cocoon, fleas are pretty much indestructible. It takes between 5-14 days for fleas to develop inside the cocoon, after which they are triggered to hatch in response to vibration (being stepped on), or the carbon dioxide exhaled by a passing host. But in the absence of a trigger, they can survive inside the cocoon for up to nine months. Vacuuming and shaking cushions and rugs etc triggers hatching and enables a spray to do the job and the emerging flea is easy to kill with a suitable insecticide. You should be able to get things under control pretty quickly if you follow the basic rules. Dealing with the dog AND the environment is key - and paying a little more for vet strength products.

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I am anxious about this myself, my cats have had no flea treatment for over a year, because last time they were treated with Frontline Spot on at the vets and Scamp reacted really badly too it and scratched her neck raw. The vet reported the reaction and Frontline paid for her treatment, the vet suggested that as they seemed to be flea free we wait a while before trying something else. I comb them to sheck for fleas and as far as I can tell they are ok at the moment, has anyone else had a similar experience?

 

Sorry to hijack your thread Calamity Jane.

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Trouble is, they can also develop a flea allergy if you don't treat them. . it's a difficult one, and obviously if you know your cat has a bad reaction then I'd avoid it, or ask if you can try something different. I tend to treat regularly in the summer, but less often in the winter when (in my view) they are less likely to pick up fleas anyway. I may be wrong on that one but it's worked for me, so far.

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I am anxious about this myself, my cats have had no flea treatment for over a year, because last time they were treated with Frontline Spot on at the vets and Scamp reacted really badly too it and scratched her neck raw. The vet reported the reaction and Frontline paid for her treatment, the vet suggested that as they seemed to be flea free we wait a while before trying something else. I comb them to sheck for fleas and as far as I can tell they are ok at the moment, has anyone else had a similar experience?

 

Sorry to hijack your thread Calamity Jane.

 

If you are sure that they don't have fleas then you will be ok just checking them regularly. Their risk of picking fleas up depends on your circumstances. You would need to use a spot on that does not contain fiprinol if they reacted last time. You do however only tend to see live fleas on the animals when they have a lot. You could treat your cats with a non fiprinol based spot on which would kill any fleas and offer protection or with Capstar if and when you see fleas which is a tablet. It will kill everything within minutes but will offer no lasting protection.

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When I spoke to the nurse at my vets this morning she told me to expect a rise in fleas in about a week when the next lot hatch out !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am hoping I have caught this all in good time ( even though a bit after the event so to speak ). The nurse suggested I let things be now for this week - and just keep hoovering. If when the next lot hatch out, I find I am out of my depth I will certainly get in the professionals. I can truthfully say I have learnt my lesson.

I do still have one question though..........

The big fluffy blanket that my teenage daughter and the dog share whilst watching tele sitting on the floor has been washed at 60C with biological powder. Whilst it was on the line drying I had a good look at it and found a number of what I believe to be pupae ( look like fleas but no legs) firmly bedded in the fluffiness. I sprayed the blanket before washing it and I can spray it again, but to be honest I am tempted to chuck it. It is quite an expensive blanket and it is not that old. The pupae are quite visible and I have picked off what I could see. What do you think ?

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When you have finished the Johnsons spray I'd get either Indorex, RIP Fleas, Flee (used to be called Skoosh - pesticide free but very good) or Acclaim. Indorex is probably the best. Permetherin is good but you also need a growth inhibitor in the spray. Nothing short of a blow torch is effective during the pupal stage of flea development so you need to ensure that you get them as they hatch out. This is where the vibrations of vacuuming and shaking out things comes in as it encourages hatching. This is why people moving into a previously empty house often find they are troubled by fleas.

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