4m x 3m Omlet pen, cube, new auto door still boxed and coop light

[KateG]

Thank you for the advice.

 

(Removed to prevent breaking forum rules)

Edited September 19, 2009 by Guest

[Christian]

I think that the grape method is a little hit and miss, but many use it and it works for them.

 

I recommend mixing 1/2 a teaspoon with 2 kilos of pellets and feeding that for 7 days.

That way each hen gets the dose they need for their body weight.

 

You can eat the eggs during treatment as there is no withdrawal period if you use the correct dose. Good luck.

[KateG]

Thank you Christian much appreciated. I feel like a new parent all over again

[Egluntyne]

I was very kindly given a share of some flubenvet earlier in teh year from a kind omleteer. I'm assuming it is the 2.5% verison (?)

 

Please not that this would now be in breach of forum rules.

 

**Click**

 

I agree with Christian, the grape method is too hit and miss, and does not follow the manufactuers instructions, whereas mixing it with the feed does.

 

Just shows how hen obsessed I am......when I typed the above link, I initially wrote 'cluck' instead of 'click'.

[sjp]

I was very kindly given a share of some flubenvet earlier in teh year from a kind omleteer. I'm assuming it is the 2.5% verison (?)

 

Please not that this would now be in breach of forum rules.

 

**Click**

 

I agree with Christian, the grape method is too hit and miss, and does not follow the manufactuers instructions, whereas mixing it with the feed does.

 

Just shows how hen obsessed I am......when I typed the above link, I initially wrote 'cluck' instead of 'click'.

you should of left it to see how many of us noticed

[KateG]

Oh sorry I thought that because it happened before the change in rules it wasn't wrong to mention it. Consider my lips now sealed.

[Egluntyne]

Not a problem. It has provided an opportunity to give a reminder to everyone.

[Ain't Nobody Here]

I've just started a course of Flubenvet and am using the mixing with pellets method rather than the grape one which I've always used.

 

I mixed 1kg but then discovered that would only do 1 day . So I then got a big plastic bucket and mixed 4kg and 5g Flubenvet with a little oil to help it stick.

 

Bit of work initially but much easier than doing the grape method each day .

 

(Just hope it clears up the diarrhoea . My new perches are getting a lovely chocolate brown makeover .)

[ejaym39]

Hello,

 

Having just received my speedy delivery of Flubenvet, I have no idea how to give it to my ladies. The does is 6g per 2kg of food. Do I just prepare the 6g with 2kg of feed, feed chickens as normal and keep doing so until the 7 days are up Is there another way to deliver the dose? You can tell this is all new to me. This is like being a parent for the first time

 

Em

[Chucky Mama]

I was very kindly given a share of some flubenvet earlier in teh year from a kind omleteer. I'm assuming it is the 2.5% verison (?)

 

Please not that this would now be in breach of forum rules.

 

**Click**

 

Not only against the forum rules but against the law

[The Dogmother]

Hello,

 

Having just received my speedy delivery of Flubenvet, I have no idea how to give it to my ladies. The does is 6g per 2kg of food. Do I just prepare the 6g with 2kg of feed, feed chickens as normal and keep doing so until the 7 days are up Is there another way to deliver the dose? You can tell this is all new to me. This is like being a parent for the first time

 

Em

 

Here's the dosing information...

 

I can't find the link to the pdf leaflet, but here's the dosing information...

 

Administering Flubenvet

Flubenvet 60g pack is ideal for those that own a few chickens or geese and is simple to use.

 

The enclosed 6g scoop included is enough to medicate 2kg* of food. This medicated food alone should be fed for 7 consecutive days. If your chickens consume the 2kg before the 7 days has elapsed just make up a 2nd batch or as much as is necessary to complete the course.

 

Each chicken will eat the food it needs for it’s bodyweight so bigger birds will take more medication than smaller birds which ensures each bird gets the correct dose for their size/weight.

 

Mixing evenly is important

1/ Weigh out 2kg of food

2/ Remove a cupful of that food and add to it one level scoop, mix well.

3/ Remove a slightly larger amount of the 2kg and add it to the cupful of medicated food. Mix well

4/ Continue adding food from the 2kg bag to the medicated mix in stages until the whole 2kg is incorporated.

(a small amount of oil can be added to help the medication to adhere if absolutely necessary)

 

Fill the feeders with the food and check them each day to ensure there is still medicated food available. Do not offer any other food or treats during medication. If the 2kg is eaten before 7 days has elapsed, make up another batch of medicated feed.

How often?

Before putting chickens out to pasture

All new birds

Routinely in Spring, Summer and Autumn

More frequently as recommended by a vet or animal health adviser if a problem with worms is suspected.

 

How do they get worms?

Worms can live in the guts and even respiratory airways of chickens and other birds. All produce eggs which the bird excretes in its droppings. The eggs are not immediately infectious—they first have to develop so that a larval immature worm can hatch from the egg when the conditions are right. The egg could be eaten from a bird from the ground, or the egg could hatch and the larval worm be eaten. In some cases other species such as the earthworm or slug will eat the egg and when this is eaten by the bird, the larval parasitic worm will be released into the bird and so the cycle begins again.

Where can worm eggs and larvae be found?

On contaminated soil or bedding material, inside earthworms, insects and wild birds (intermediate hosts), stuck to footwear, equipment and even dogs and cats.

Symptoms of common worms

Worms can affect your chickens and the quality of the eggs that they lay. Chickens with worms can become ill, loose weight, are dull and in poor condition. Some may become anaemic, showing pale wattles and rough feathers. Some birds die. In some cases there will be little to see externally despite a worm infection. Chickens with worms may lay fewer, smaller eggs and show poor shell colour and strength or pale yolk colour. In some cases worms have been found in the egg itself. Worms are not always seen in droppings.

 

 

You can continue to eat the eggs your chickens produce while they are being treated with Flubenvet

 

[ejaym39]

Thank you - all mixed in to the feed and put in pen.

 

Em