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[helen1962]

Hi All

 

My hens keep getting worms. Since Christmas I have used Flubenvet 3 times and although it works for a short time. Every 3 weeks the worms are back just as bad as ever. Verm-X is just a none starter! Does anyone else have this problem and if so does anyone have any solutions? I am worried that continual use of Flubenvet may have detrimental effect on hens and eggs.

 

Please Help!!

[Cooks]

what method have you used to give it to the hens? ie grape method? in their feed? and was it for the full 7 days?

Edited March 4, 2010 by Guest

[helen1962]

I administer in porridge because I know they get the full dose then

[Cooks]

was that for the full 7 days? is there any chance the flubenvet is out of date?

[Space Chick]

I think Flubenvet is great. Are you sure that everyone is getting their fair share? Medicating their feed is the best way to ensure they all get what they should.

[Cooks]

yes flubenvet has always worked for me.

[helen1962]

Its definitely not out of date and I do administer for the full 7 days each and every time I have to use it. I just don't know why it is not working as I have been told that once they have flubenvet it sorts out worms for a long time but that just isn't happening. What do you think I am doing wrong?

[Space Chick]

Are you sure you are getting the dosage right?

[Cooks]

I am wondering like DC says whether all the girls are actually getting their full dose. Try changing the way you give it and weigh out some food and mix it with that for 7 days and then chuck away what you dont use. That is what I am doing at this precise moment.

 

No treats and limited FRing for those 7 days otherwise they will fill up on other stuff other than the food with the flubenvet in, which is what you want them to eat.

[helen1962]

I only have two hens so it is easy to make sure they get their full quota and as porridge is their favourite I know all the medication is eaten. I just can't understand why they continually keep getting them.

[Cooks]

Others will be along with some more advice, I have never had a problem with flubenvet and would never use anything else.

[Sandychick]

Thats a puzzle sounds like what you are doing is right. Are you sure they have worms? What are the symptoms, or have you seen them in their poo (sorry to be graphic!)? I've always found flubenvet to be very effective.

[helen1962]

I have seen the evidence in their pooh! and with only two extremely friendly birds it's not hard to see it.

[Cooks]

hmmmm so how much are you putting in their porridge? jsut so people can tell whether the dose is right

[abwsco]

As far as I know Flubenvet will only kill the worms that are present at the time of worming so if the ground they are on is heavily infested with worms they will continue to get them. Have you tried adding ACV to their water everyday as many longstanding poultry keepers only use that.

[Chicken Licken]

Last summer someone on here explained that it should be mixed into their daily feed as it needs to be ingested gradually each day rather than in one dose (in porrige or grapes). Mine had worms that I could not get rid of and once I changed to mixing it into their layers mash we got rid of the visitors (must do them again as spring is here).

Is it possible to treat contaminated ground with someting (I think garden lime - but may have made this up). I do know that flubenvet is the only wormer registered for use on chickens. It also comes in different strengths and the legislation changed sometime last yhear. I hav flubenvet intermediate (for chickens and pheasants) which is a stronger % medication than the stuff you can now buy (someone who knows will be along in amo I'm sure)

[Lavenders_Blue]

I would agree that you should try mixing the flubenvet in with the pellets/mash. If you have the 1% strength you should mix 1 scoop with every 2kg pellets/mash and mix mix mix it so it's evenly distributed. The hens will then self administer the correct amount of medication according to how much they eat.

I know that you prefer to mix the flubenvet into their porridge to be certain that they are eating it, but I don't understand how you can be sure they are taking in the correct amount? As the dose is measured by food weight not per hen.

[Plum]

I don't believe it would take long to get reinfected so I would treat the run as well.

 

If you are on soil I would dig some garden lime in and Stalosan F on the ground and poo pick regularly. If you are on slabs and bedding of some sort I would change it when worming and treat the ground with Stalosan F. Each week sprinkle some Stalosan on the bedding and when you clean them out put some down. Keep poo picking.

[Chucky1]

Just my 0.02$, but I agree with Plum. I think you are delivering the Flubenvet effectively but the girls are getting reinfected.

 

What does the run stand on?

 

Good Luck

[The Dogmother]

It could be down to one of two things....

 

1. There was a debate on here at the end of last year about whether Flubenvet could be given in porridge or grapes - the chap on the Janssen stand at The National confirmed that this was OK, but Janssen HQ have since advised that it should only be given in dry feed (i.e. mash or pellets)

 

2. As any wormer is only effective at the time of worming, it is totally possible for them to be re-infected, especially if your land has a large wormload. It is unusual though for any worms to appear in the poos, whether they are infested or not. I would suggest that you treat the soil in their run as Plum has suggested; I am told that there is a new product coming onto the market shortly, which is a run/ground treatment to be used in conjunction with a wormer... I don't know any more about it though.

 

As I mentioned, it is very unusual to see worms in the poo, so it might be an idea to get a sample tested by either Retfords or your vet.

 

They will never be totally free of worms (the same goes for cats and dogs) the idea being to keep them to a manageable level.

[Chucky Mama]

To Flubenvet effectively you should add 1 scoop to 2kg of food (assuming that you are using 1%) Mix really well and feed the chickens from this medicated food exclusively for 7 days making up fresh batches if you run out. You chickens should then be free of worms until they next infect themselves - this can be the very next day, in 2 weeks, 3 months or never. Different worms take different lengths of time to mature. If your chickens environment is heavily infested your chickens will quickly become wormy again. Worming is not like vacciantion, it does not give any protection at all. The best thing is to assume that your chickens always have worms and that worming regularly prevents any worms they have getting large enough of numerous enough to make them ill. I agree that you need to look at their environmental worm burden. It is advised that Flubenvet is used every 3-4 weeks in heavily infected areas If you want to try a different wormer you could use Panacur (not licensed for poultry) but this wont stop your chickens getting reinfested either.

[The Dogmother]

I have used Panacur (not licensed for use on poultry in the UK) for about 3 years now - not because of a worm burden, but because it is broader spectrum and easier to dose.

[beulah59]

Are they on the same piece of ground? Could they be picking up new worms if there's an infestation of them in the ground?

[The Dogmother]

That's right Beulah59 - that's what we've been discussing.

[Egluntyne]

I'd administer it according to the manufacturers instructions - by mixing it with the pellets. It needs to be present in the gut on a continuous basis for the 7 days, and not just in one hit. Also, cut out all treats.

 

Another thing you might like to try is rotating the ground that the hens range over, to break the cycle.

 

Also, if you do give them treats, best not to scatter them on the floor of the run as there might be worm eggs lurking there, and the hens might ingest them.