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Problems with new woodburner

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:( We had a new woodburner installed a few weeks ago and have tried to light it a couple of times recently but it has been problematic. We have contacted the installer to get him back but in the meantime wondered if we were doing anything wrong. The chimney was swept prior to installation.

 

We had a delivery of hardwood logs which are meant to have been dried for a year. They are kept outside in a proper log store which we bought. We have had a basket full of the logs indoors for weeks so they should definitely be dry enough to use. We used kindling to light it which burnt brilliantly, we then added logs. They were burning fine too until we closed the door. We were told to leave the door ajar for half an hour after lighting which we did, then we closed it right up. Basically it goes out if we close the door. If we reopen the door it flares up again so we think there is not enough air getting in. The vent at the bottom is open all the time and we have had a window open too (just to get air in the room).

 

OH has studied the leaflet that came with the woodburner but cannot find any information to help. Bit dismayed tbh. I know we will probably just have to wait to hear back from the installer but just wondered if any of you could pinpoint anything we were doing wrong?

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I'd agree, it sounds as if there's not enough air coming through. Don't despair - every woodburner is different, and you will soon learn the particular foibles of yours. You will be loving it when winter comes, it's definitely one of the best things I've ever bought. What sort is yours?

 

I'd just add that 'dry' wood isn't the same as seasoned wood. Most wood needs to be cut and stacked to allow the sap to dry out, then it is 'seasoned'. You can tell with some wood because it will feel lighter and hollower, and cracks will appear in the ends of the logs, it's easier with some types than others. Seasoned wood can be stored outside and get wet, and still be useable once the superficial moisture has dried out. If your wood is 12 months old, then it should be ok, but if it isn't then keeping it indoors for a few weeks will not be enough, it will still be full of sap. Ash can be burnt from green, but most wood needs at least 6-12 months to season.

 

It might be worth buying a stove thermometer - mine sits on the chimney pipe, and I've found it really helpful to work out when it is at the right temperature to close the vents down. Hopefully your installer will be able to sort it out for you.

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There are no controls at all that we can see or access, apart from the small vent with the slider at the front on the bottom of the actual woodburner. We know there are flue dampers (??) somewhere as the installer mentioned them but we can't see them. It is a Broseley Evolution 5 burner. Sounds like he will have to come back and sort it... x

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Ahhh that's a modern one, mine is the traditional looking type, but same principal applies, it still sounds like the flames are being suffocated with no airflow to me, I am no expert but I know if our flue is shut it kills the flames.

 

Good luck with it, I love mine.

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Take it that it burnt well when the installer lit it.

 

I know it was trial and error for us to get ours going well as like Olly says they all seem to be different. We found this helpful as well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7ewoH7FWT0

 

Like OIlly says I'd get a stove thermometer if you haven't already and you can also buy a moisture meter to check your wood with as that could be part of the problem as well.

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We are sure the installer will be able to sort it. Well he will have to! :lol: He said the updraught in the chimney was really good before fitting it. The flue comes vertically down the chimney and then bends before going horizontally into the back of the burner. Hoping the bend wouldn't affect its performance?? The wood has been seasoned for at least a year according to the supplier's info so should be fine. Thanks for your help, we will get it looked at as soon as we can. I will keep you posted :D xx

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Well the woodburner chap came back very promptly to have a look for us. He removed a damper from inside, took it all apart to check no blockages and that the firebricks were all okay, which they were. He moved a spacer that needed adjustment and lit it . (He hadn't lit it when it was fitted as there was wet cement which needed to dry first). We had been lighting it correctly which was good. It was a very warm, still day which was not ideal for testing and although there was some improvement it definitely was not right. Our logs were tested with a moisture meter (which we then bought) and they were fine. He suggested we have an aspirator on top of the chimney which twirls around and helps the draw. It is on order and should be fitted next week. I will keep you posted, fingers crossed it does the trick. :anxious: We looked at the youtube video, thankyou for the link and thanks for all of your input. xxx

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Well the woodburner chap came back very promptly to have a look for us. He removed a damper from inside, took it all apart to check no blockages and that the firebricks were all okay, which they were. He moved a spacer that needed adjustment and lit it . (He hadn't lit it when it was fitted as there was wet cement which needed to dry first). We had been lighting it correctly which was good. It was a very warm, still day which was not ideal for testing and although there was some improvement it definitely was not right. Our logs were tested with a moisture meter (which we then bought) and they were fine. He suggested we have an aspirator on top of the chimney which twirls around and helps the draw. It is on order and should be fitted next week. I will keep you posted, fingers crossed it does the trick. :anxious: We looked at the youtube video, thankyou for the link and thanks for all of your input. xxx

 

Dont underestimate the effect of the weather. Trying it in the summer is not a real indicator of how it will operate. We live in a very rural location where in the winter we really struggle to keep our rayburn under control as the draw is so great up the flue. Yet in contrast we can find it difficult to light our woodburner on summer evenings (we often do it for the ambience or to take the chill off as I like to be hot)

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Unseasoned wood will still burn well, as will wet wood if the fire is hot. The problem with this wood lies in it lining the fire inside, and, in time, corrosion. Often seasoned hard wood has a tell-tale 'star' shape in cross section. If you're not sure you're getting fully seasoned wood, just buy way more than you can store in the first instance and make your own.

 

It's important to note that wood fires require more air 'over the top' of the fire, rather than 'under' it, and there should be a way to open and let the 'air-wash' over the fire and down the front of the glass to circulate. it's more important to open this than just the bottom vents (bottom vents are more for coal or similar)... or the fire will smoulder rather than flame. The air-wash isn't just for keeping the glass clean, but is necessary for wood.

 

There are also different grate styles for wood than other fuels, some pure wood buners don't even use a grate at all, and even different retainer bars. They all direct the air differently, depending on what you burn.

 

Like people say though... you'll get the hang of it, and perhaps won't even know how you did.

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Thankyou for your advice. The woodburner chap came back as promised, (he has been great actually), he fitted an aspirator (which twirls round ) to the chimney, lit the burner and all was fine. This was on a warm day so it should burn brilliantly when it is actually cold out. :D I am wishing for colder evenings now to try it out. :lol: Our wood is seasoned and very dry according to the meter we bought and we were doing everything right regarding the actual lighting. It just needed a bit of help with the 'draw' apparently. Maybe because the flue is not straight up but has a 90 degree bend and because we are in quite a sheltered spot? The smoke test indicated a good 'draw' when the chimney was tested before installation. Anyway, hopefully all sorted. I will post a pic of it in action! xxxx

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ok I bet there is nothing wrong with your burner.

 

The key to getting it going is to get it hot(sounds daft I know)! Buy some kindling wood and keep it dry. I have a metal bin outside the back door I fill it up with kindling wood but in winter or damp I do bring a carrier bag indoors to last a few days.

 

Personally unless you read a newspaper every single day you need something to light the kindling with. So hence I buy cheap pre wrapped fire lighters (like the ones you use on the BBQ). I use to buy the old type but the pre wrapped are cleaner to use. I try to be mean and use one only.Dont over fill the cabinet and get the kindling really going well before adding a log (the smaller logs are better) then build it up. You can keep the vents open to get it really roaring a and alight. This may take 10 minutes+

 

It is trial and error until you get use to it. Wood burners are brilliant once they get going but they can take an hour to get going. You will learn how to do this.

 

I know so many friends that have wondered why they got one in the first place and now wouldnt be without it. Good luck.

 

If you have time I collect twigs throughout the summer and break them up into bags. I have loads of large garden sacks full of free twigs to get the fire going for this winter.

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Great advice here. Sounds as if your chimney isn't drawing well enough, is it sheltered or hemmed in by other houses?

 

I start mine with scrunched up newspaper or loo rolls and some very dry kindling. As Olly says, even damp wood will burn but you need to be very careful that the wood is seasoned well; I leave fresh logs 2 years before burning.

 

Has your chimney been tested for leaks or is it lined? That will affect the draw too.

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mj5ky.jpg

 

We are very pleased to say that our woodburner is now working well, since the aspirator was fitted and the outside temperature has dropped a bit. Thankyou to all who gave advice. :) As you can see, it is very popular with Molly (Lab) and Willow. :lol: We recently had to have two plum trees felled and the tree surgeon cut the suitable parts of the tree into logs for us. We now have to season them. We are stacking them on pallets and loosely covering them with a tarpaulin. We were told 18 months should be long enough but we will leave them two years so we will have plenty of logs in the Autumn of 2014 :shock: . Forward planning!! The smaller bits of the trees were chipped so I have plenty of woodchip for my chicken and duck area now. A huge heap of it on the front garden! :lol: Is it wrong to be soooo pleased to have a lovely pile of woochips? :oops: xx

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