Chick-a-doodle-doo Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 do we have to worm chickens even if they don't have them? and what is the easiest product? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffin Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 I use Flubenvet every couple of months, mixed in their food. It's obviously working because when I took a few of mine to the vets recently poo samples from them were put under a microscope and the vet said it was very rare for her to do that and not find worms but mine were all worm free! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egluntyne Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 Another Flubenvet user here too. Hens who get to free range will almost certainly have a cargo of worms. You might not always see them as some are microscopic. A small infestation is thought by many to be beneficial to the bird, as it brings about an immune response. However, if it gets out of hand it is detrimental to the hen. There are several herbal preparations available too, which are supposed to make the gut inhospitable to internal parasites, or at least keep them down to a level with which the hen can cope. Legally, these products are not allowed to describe themselves as wormers. I have tried a couple and have found them to be unsatisfactory. I once had a very poorly hen, who was on a herbal preparation and it became obvious to me that she had worms. Once treated with Flubenvet, she perked up within a week, and passed masses of live, wriggling worms and a large amount of dead ones too. So did her companions, although they were not as poorly as she was. In addition to a regular worming schedule, I also have a schedule of resting parts of the hens area, and treating it with garden lime, to break the cycle. There is a useful article **here** in the FAQ section, all about worming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick-a-doodle-doo Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 oh thanks, never thought to look there.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chucky Mama Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 do we have to worm chickens even if they don't have them Thanks. You usually don't 'know' if they have them as evidence is usually in the form of microscopic eggs in the poo. Worms aren't actually generally seen until things get quite advanced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandyhas3chucks Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 You usually don't 'know' if they have them as evidence is usually in the form of microscopic eggs in the poo. Worms aren't actually generally seen until things get quite advanced. Sorry to say not always the case.... I know this is a controversial subject, but mine had been wormed only a few months say 3 max 4 months previously. My chook walked onto patio and deposited a stinky caecal pooh that was absolutely heaving. I am NOT easily queasy but it was gross! Flub em all, dead worms VERY evident!!!! And for others looking in, I have been systematically doing the whole garden with Stalofan F. As We clearly have a high worm count in the garden! They are not kept in a run all day. They free range mostly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chucky Mama Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 Goodness that is . The recommendation for 'high pressure' is every 3-4 weeks, 'medium' 6-8 weeks, low 8-10 weeks and for 'control' 10-12 weeks. Maybe it would be worth bringing your worming dates closer together if you think that your girls are at greater risk. Out of interest, where there any signs of ill health, eggs dropping off etc before you saw the 'noodle poo?' (dates refer to flubenvet - sorry forgot to put that ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandyhas3chucks Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 hard to say really CM, as this particular gir,l is if I am not really careful an over egg producer and periodic softee layer. Since really watching what protein she has as extras she is manically starving and gets nasty and extra agittated around food(although she is now 1 of 8 not 1 of 4) But no, not sick, visibly. Funnily (though it is NOT) same thing happened with my disabled girl today. So back on the flub again. I noticed though that the life cycle for cacal worms is 26- 30 days ! So once a month would be needed for these! And I have been using the VermX as well, and Garlic though not daily! I was just going to send samples off to Retfords when I could identify which 2 girls were doing the splats (will see how the worming goes 1st now) (oh she was NOT one I was checking for! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pikey Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Funnily enough I noticed today that one of girls had noodle poo (I love that description!!) despite only being wormed with Flubenvent about 5-6 weeks ago. I was going to ask whether ok to worm again but it seems it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwing Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Yes ts fine Pikey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandyhas3chucks Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 well I had read all the posts re flub etc. Decided that for me I prefereed the not recommended grape method, tho having needed to reworm wondered if perhaps it was because I was using this "non recommened " method. although I "think" it was Claret posted that her vet rcommends individual dosing in water as quite sensibly and logically to me is "is the only way of ensuring each hen gets a dose" Anyway there is all this about the biggest eating more etc ant there fore getting more wormer. soooooooo mixed it with some food! one post said 1/4 tsp per chook per week, so mixed that with food, then read no... It's not a per chook it's how much they eat Flippin heck are these maunufactures on our planet there is such a tiny amount of this powder in the mash, loads get spilled . How flippin imprecise is that? as impresise as diping a grape on a bit, and you practically have to feed the whole tub to OD on the stuff! Nowonder vets prescribe panacur in 2 simple easy doses even if not licenced fo chooks(lots of the meds aren't) Soory for long posting but reading about and doing wee different. Rant over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jools Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 There's a fairly simple, definitive guide to using Flubenvet on the P P forum here I do agree that using something you add to their drinking water is far easier. And effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chucky Mama Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 well I had read all the posts re flub etc.Decided that for me I prefereed the not recommended grape method, tho having needed to reworm wondered if perhaps it was because I was using this "non recommened " method. although I "think" it was Claret posted that her vet rcommends individual dosing in water as quite sensibly and logically to me is "is the only way of ensuring each hen gets a dose" Anyway there is all this about the biggest eating more etc ant there fore getting more wormer. soooooooo mixed it with some food! one post said 1/4 tsp per chook per week, so mixed that with food, then read no... It's not a per chook it's how much they eat Flippin heck are these maunufactures on our planet there is such a tiny amount of this powder in the mash, loads get spilled . How flippin imprecise is that? as impresise as diping a grape on a bit, and you practically have to feed the whole tub to OD on the stuff! Nowonder vets prescribe panacur in 2 simple easy doses even if not licenced fo chooks(lots of the meds aren't) Soory for long posting but reading about and doing wee different. Rant over I completely understand your need for a jolly good rant I had a long conversation with the guys that make Flubenvet and discussed the grape method as I know a lot to people use it. They said that Flub needs to be eaten throughout the day for it to be effective for the full course. I suppose that it is entirely possible that this could be why your girls have worms again so quickly. They tell me that the key to dosing is the mixing. They say weigh out your 1kg and then take out a small amount to mix your scoop of Flub with (add a wee bit of oil if you want to to help it stick) then and a bit more and a bit more mixing really well each time. They were quite adamant that the grape method should not be used. They say that Flub medicated feed should be fed only for the 7 days (confess I still let mine free range but rightly or wrongly consider that I am not at high risk). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jools Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 But didn't someone who spoke to the Flubenvet peeps at the National report that they said it wasn't necessary to feed it throughout the day? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chucky Mama Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 But didn't someone who spoke to the Flubenvet peeps at the National report that they said it wasn't necessary to feed it throughout the day? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egluntyne Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 That was rather surprising as it goes completely against the manufacturers written instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jools Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 But didn't someone who spoke to the Flubenvet peeps at the National report that they said it wasn't necessary to feed it throughout the day? No need to shoot the messenger, it wasn't me, I wasn't there! Have a read of the post by Plum on this page of the National thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chucky Mama Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 No need to shoot the messenger, it wasn't me, I wasn't there! No shooting of the messenger from here Jools Just unbelievable that someone from the Company should feel it necessary to contradict what I was told. This sort of thing just add to the overall confusion. Surely if it was OK to dose with the grape method it would be in the instructions as a option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandyhas3chucks Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 You know what I think.? gonna say anyway I think that they are really geared up for large flocks where in the feed (or water) would be the "only" option. imagine 300 grape halves I cannot actually see the science behind this in the feed (but whoever wondered if the grape method is why I need to re do) Is the reason I decided to do this plain crazy method. IF anything the grape method delivers possibly a higher dose than they would get. As it's action is like most wormers to paralyse/stun the worms, I cannot see why the Panacure way will NOT work. I am intrigued by you guys getting a response from them, as I asked the questions on an email, and no one has bothered to acknowledge let alone reply to the questions. I would think some intellectual brain would work out the chances of ANY mixing with 1 kg of mash getting into each chook why do some intelligent vets disagree with the instructions I wonder. Anyway one day we will get an answer. Jools you MAY be interested to note that I am also using VermX AND periodically Garlic. Also interesting(well to me) is that I have not seen any dead worms using this feed method yet have spectacually in the grape method (this not science )as it IS dark /dull in the mornings.. But nothing in the trays or nests what a flippin pain, not he;ped by them not agreeing with themselves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dogmother Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 But didn't someone who spoke to the Flubenvet peeps at the National report that they said it wasn't necessary to feed it throughout the day? They did - both Laurie and I, and Plum (I think) were told that, in fact L and I double-checked it with him as both of us had been told that the wet mash approach was best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chucky Mama Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 sandyhas3chucks, it sounds like the Janseen gang are not all singing from the same hymn sheet. Companies like this drive me up the wall, it makes me stop believing anything they say and makes me wonder if some staff are making it up as they go along Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandyhas3chucks Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 But didn't someone who spoke to the Flubenvet peeps at the National report that they said it wasn't necessary to feed it throughout the day? They did - both Laurie and I, and Plum (I think) were told that, in fact L and I double-checked it with him as both of us had been told that the wet mash approach was best. oh pooh,pooh and double pooh and I have a kg left I expect of the stupid mixture!!!!!! Was that the 1/4 tsp per chook per week dose in mash???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C&T Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 This does make me feel a little better... Sandyhas3chucks - I also do the grape method. Like you, I find a lot of food gets pinged all over the place from their Grub, but if I give each chicken a medicated grape for 7 days, then I know they have all been wormed. Plus, I don't really like the idea of locking them up for 7 days, so that they are only eating the medicated food (all be it they don't get out that much at the moment!). And I too have seen "results", or "noodle poos" across the patio when doing it this way. Have been feeling a little guilty as not doing it the officially recomended way, but the grape way is so easy and has proven effective, and I don't have to lock them up for 7 days. For me, so far, the grape method is definitely the preferred option. It's a decision I have taken, after careful consideration, and fingers crossed I trust none of my girls will get ill as a result... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 Hi I have had the chickens sinc about May and yesterday went to clean the poo tray out and shock horror it was like a little ball of string all a ball of worms! So I cleaned and burned it all and re lined started the flubenvet and today a smaller amount of worms! The chickens are all really well but I have confession time left it a bit long (probably 4 month gap) however they are free ranging more and we have tons of ducks so I think I caught it soon. The only thing is I just replenished all the wood bark & am debating if to start again! Am even considering having another little run so that I can rest off and move them to another area in the garden. But I was shocked and have horses etc so am use to worming but yep a real bundle of worms! Good luck dont get complacent like me! I just learned a chicken lesson without them being ill ! indie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jools Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 Am even considering having another little run so that I can rest off and move them to another area in the garden. If you can possibly do it, then resting the ground is the very best thing you can do. Chickens are livestock (as well as pets) so the basics of ground maintenance are good for them too. Yes they will be reinfected with worms if you do nothing with the surface they're on now. It takes around a month. If you can move them onto fresh ground, the advice is to do so immediately after worming and then to worm them again in one month. After that, you can revert to your normal worming routine. UV light kills worm eggs and larvae, but that's in quite short supply at the moment. I believe you're supposed to rest the ground for a full year, but I just give mine 4-8 months because they have their April-November quarters on grass, then Dec-March on woodchip and grass. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
