Eglu Go With 2m Run For Sale

[Cinnamon]

Its been a long while since I bought any Flubenvet - think I got my last batch from the vet,but I have just noticed that it is now out of date

 

I have Flubenvet intermediate,which I have used for several years,but looking online I see that there is Flubenvet 1% - is this new?

 

It would obviously be a bonus if i could get it online,as my vets won't let me have any unless I bring a hen in to them (& pay the fee no doubt.Have told them its preventative), but can anyone tell me which Flubenvet is the best to get?

[legend21]

Hi I use the 1% on line stuff, it is weaker but you adjust the amount to the feed, it has worked fine for me since last May

 

Jackie

[Lydia]

Rather than go to the vet you can get Flubenvet from Countrywide at Hare Hatch. I've no idea if its one or the other but I use it and it seems to work.

 

I have a feeling they can only dispense on certain days though (because the appropriate person isn't there all the time I think) so best to call them before you go.

[Chucky Mama]

They bought out the 1% a little while ago to make it easier for those keeping chickens in small numbers.

[The Dogmother]

The new version has been around for some while Sarah. TAJ (I think) posted a good dosing/mixing guide in one of the threads somewhere. I can't find it, but there's a pdf leaftlet somewhere online - I'll try to find it and link to it for you.

[The Dogmother]

I can't find the link to the pdf leaflet, but here's the dosing information...

 

Administering Flubenvet

Flubenvet 60g pack is ideal for those that own a few chickens or geese and is simple to use.

 

The enclosed 6g scoop included is enough to medicate 2kg* of food. This medicated food alone should be fed for 7 consecutive days. If your chickens consume the 2kg before the 7 days has elapsed just make up a 2nd batch or as much as is necessary to complete the course.

 

Each chicken will eat the food it needs for it’s bodyweight so bigger birds will take more medication than smaller birds which ensures each bird gets the correct dose for their size/weight.

 

Mixing evenly is important

1/ Weigh out 2kg of food

2/ Remove a cupful of that food and add to it one level scoop, mix well.

3/ Remove a slightly larger amount of the 2kg and add it to the cupful of medicated food. Mix well

4/ Continue adding food from the 2kg bag to the medicated mix in stages until the whole 2kg is incorporated.

(a small amount of oil can be added to help the medication to adhere if absolutely necessary)

 

Fill the feeders with the food and check them each day to ensure there is still medicated food available. Do not offer any other food or treats during medication. If the 2kg is eaten before 7 days has elapsed, make up another batch of medicated feed.

How often?

Before putting chickens out to pasture

All new birds

Routinely in Spring, Summer and Autumn

More frequently as recommended by a vet or animal health adviser if a problem with worms is suspected.

 

How do they get worms?

Worms can live in the guts and even respiratory airways of chickens and other birds. All produce eggs which the bird excretes in its droppings. The eggs are not immediately infectious—they first have to develop so that a larval immature worm can hatch from the egg when the conditions are right. The egg could be eaten from a bird from the ground, or the egg could hatch and the larval worm be eaten. In some cases other species such as the earthworm or slug will eat the egg and when this is eaten by the bird, the larval parasitic worm will be released into the bird and so the cycle begins again.

Where can worm eggs and larvae be found?

On contaminated soil or bedding material, inside earthworms, insects and wild birds (intermediate hosts), stuck to footwear, equipment and even dogs and cats.

Symptoms of common worms

Worms can affect your chickens and the quality of the eggs that they lay. Chickens with worms can become ill, loose weight, are dull and in poor condition. Some may become anaemic, showing pale wattles and rough feathers. Some birds die. In some cases there will be little to see externally despite a worm infection. Chickens with worms may lay fewer, smaller eggs and show poor shell colour and strength or pale yolk colour. In some cases worms have been found in the egg itself. Worms are not always seen in droppings.

 

 

You can continue to eat the eggs your chickens produce while they are being treated with Flubenvet

 

Ther are loads of threads about the new version, which came out sometime last year (can't remember exactly when) a trawl through them will probably find even more info.

[Redwing]

The new 1% is less 'value for money' than the old bigger pack though. Its not as strong and the pack is smaller, not a problem with a small flock I suppose but it does seem like false economy long term

 

I have a source for the old larger size, if you need it pm me

[The Dogmother]

There was some hue and cry at the launch about the economics of the new pack, but it makes dosing so much easier for backyard keepers rather than working out the dosage from a label intended for treating thousands of pheasants.

[Redwing]

you are absolutely correct of course, it includes a nifty measuring scoop - ideal for those who are new to it, I thought it might suit Sarah to get the old stuff as she will have been used to the old dose so thought it worth mentioning

[The Dogmother]

You're lucky to be able to get the old version still

[Cinnamon]

Thanks all - what a great source you all are!

 

I have got some of the new stuff now - the doseage will suit me fine.

I do hate waste & I have just had to chuck almost a full tub of the old stuff away

 

I was always a bit slap dash with the dosing anyhow ,at least this way I will get it right!

[Redwing]

You're lucky to be able to get the old version still

 

The previously imposed restrictions have largely been lifted now thank goodness

[The Dogmother]

You're lucky to be able to get the old version still

 

The previously imposed restrictions have largely been lifted now thank goodness

 

That's interesting

[Griffin]

I've run out of my tub after their recent worming so will need the old stuff again in a few months. My lot get through nearly 5kg of food a day So we need whichever one is best value for money

[Sandychick]

There was a thread on here about the price when the 1% was first available - here's the link viewtopic.php?f=11&t=33018

[Laura & CTB]

I just threw away half a tub last week as it was out of date - got the 1% which is fine but oh what a palarver mixing it with 2kg food

[beulah59]

Didn't help that I lost the scoop .. so I have to guess/weigh ...

 

[Busybird]

Does anyone know what component in Flubenvet suffers with age?

 

Just wondering how rigourous I have to be over the use by dates. So many things these days have use by's that make no sense.

[Chucky Mama]

Didn't help that I lost the scoop .. so I have to guess/weigh ...

 

 

It is 6g

[Chucky Mama]

Does anyone know what component in Flubenvet suffers with age?

 

Just wondering how rigourous I have to be over the use by dates. So many things these days have use by's that make no sense.

 

I have to admit to using things beyond the sell by date. If things are well sealed, don't get exposed to excessive heat, cold or damp, I use them but it really is something that you have to decide yourself

[Alis girls]

How often do you worm them of they havent got worms?

[Busybird]

I worm mine every four months or so as a precaution as they free range a lot. I have never seen any sign of worms.

[Chucky Mama]

How often do you worm them of they havent got worms?

 

As you can't really tell if they have worms unless they have them so badly that they either turn up in poo or they get clinical signs it is wise to worm them 3-4 times a year as a routine. As wormers do not protect against worms they are only worm free until they next infect themselves which could be the very next day. Worming at regular intervals ensures they don't get big enough or numerous enough to make them unwell.