Plum Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 You could screw them onto the wood of the run using brackets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chick wiggle Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 I bought a couple of shelf brackets and screwed them to the vertical posts of the run sides for my skirting board shelf. I've also used a couple of Ikea L-shaped things, screwed in then the branches cable-tied to it. Oooo, good idea, note taken, idea to be copied Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Ahhh, I forgot about screwing brackets into the wood! I remember seeing a photo of someones and thinking it was a good idea now! I should really save the photos to remember For the grubs + glugs, I've done the same a few people on here and bought some 'kroken' rails from ikea - a 35cm and an 80cm one. Am going to put some supports in the same as the middle cross bars and screw them into that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chick wiggle Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 Photos of pophole as promised Lewis. hope it helps Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 Thanks Definately helps ... the frame is they same way I planned but your door is central not to the left ... probably makes more sense like that Will do my best to copy it with a side hinged door Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chick wiggle Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 A side opening one would work just the same. We couldnt have a side opening one as the panel posts stick out so the pophole wouldnt lay flat against the side of the run and the walkway around the run is narrow enough already! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Me again Hopefully planning to get the WIR stuff in the next couple of days, do you think a 1x1 foot door would be big enough, or a bit bigger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plum Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 I'd probably make it 18" like my cube run door so 2 can get out together If that is the size of your coop door you'll know they can fit through Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patricia W Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 I'm thinking of an octagonal WIR as we have just the spot in the garden. I think we can get in a 12ft octagonal shape. I know Cinnamon has one and I like the one on the great Tony's website too. I'm just wondering about the practicalities of them and particularly the type of roof . Tony's has a "double lined solid ship lap roof" and Cinnamon's seems to have plastic. Has anyone else gone down this route? Tricia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janty Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 I haven't but I agree that the one on Tony's website does look good...we were admiring that and said that we'd get one if we had the space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atsw Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 I'm thinking of an octagonal WIR as we have just the spot in the garden. I think we can get in a 12ft octagonal shape. I know Cinnamon has one and I like the one on the great Tony's website too. Oh Tricia, do let me know if you go ahead with this plan, I'd love to help with the construction if you need a helping hand! Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patricia W Posted January 27, 2010 Share Posted January 27, 2010 Hi Andrew I'm very tempted.... but I've just seen eggstatic's chalet one too.... Come round for a visit and see my over-run garden! Tricia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plum Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Just had a quote for concrete base and back to the drawing board Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 Just had a quote for concrete base and back to the drawing board Can I ask how much? ... I thought slabs might be cheaper (£90ish in B&Q for just the slabs), father thinks concrete will be the same, but easier to do and get flat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plum Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 It was £600 for 12ft x 6ft + an L bit also making a retaining wall and cutting away a bit of slope of the garden. It's down 2 really steep slopes one at front of house and one down to chook area so guess that's why, but I expected it to be more. OH thought it would be £150 I'm trying to work out if I can slab it. I have slabs but they are much too heavy for me to lay again. I tried and the ones I did are going in all directions but I have been looking at the DIY sites and they come smaller so thought I may break up old ones and then put down some agregate and sand and seal them in. Don't really know about laying slabs just looking up leaflet on wickes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 That is a lot! I suppose it'd be a lot of work though - ours is just flat. The slabs we put down for the guinea pig we just levelled the soil, put building sand down and concreted the slabs in. My latest idea is to have the wendy house on the outside on the opposite end to the door, with the 4 foot door so we can shut that and the wendy house door, then the Go underneath with on a table, but have the Go facing along the wall so I can open the back easily ... it'll all have changed tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plum Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 ...but it's fun planning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ain't Nobody Here Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 I got my slabs on Freecyle. Worth a try, you never know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jac and Rory Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 I'm at the mind boggling stage of starting to plan a WIR and my first question is Cube in or out? I've looked at the photos on the forum and am undecided. If the Cube is outside (but adjoined to) the run then it will be easy to clean, collect eggs and the run itself will likely be cheaper (a bit smaller). If the Cube is within the run then the run would be bigger and there may also be extra expense of egg doors etc - but would there be a big advantage in having that little bit of extra very sheltered space under the Cube for the those wet summer days? Anybody with a Cube + WIR got any views? Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwing Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 The area under the cube is usful but I have seen a run where the cube is on the outside but the area nder it is joined to the run so the chickens can use it which I thought was clever Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plum Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Given free choice I would choose outside so you can close the door without them wanting to come out and greet you. There again you could have a small hatch for the door handle I frequently look in the top in the mornings before letting them out so guess its easier to do that if it is inside. You can do it with it inside if you have it backing onto a side of the run and have a hatch that opens for the top and for the poo trays. There is no simple answer. If you have it outside you need to have a space to move the lid forward unless you can move the whole cube back. I worked out the best place to put the cube is in a right hand corner inside so you can have a small hatch at the side for the handle, a split hatch at back for poo trays and lid then a small door on the left next for getting to the egg port. Does that make sense. As you may guess I am still undecided. Suppose you need to look at your routine and what would make it easiest for you, most pictures I've seen are on the outside or in the middle of the run Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevtheplumber Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 mine is out and makes it a lot easier than if it was in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jac and Rory Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Thanks everyone - more good ideas and more to think about! I'm inclining towards having the cube outside the run but the area underneath connected to the run (what a clever idea) provided I can still move the roof forward with ease. I've seen photos where there is a slot in the run panel for the Cube roof to slide through but that looks like it may demand a great deal of accuracy when measuring. I'll seek the advice of the fabulous Tony! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Another idea is to still have the first half of the run still attached to the cube, and that attached to the run, so you can slide the roof forwards and still use the underneath cube in the run - thats what Poet's done I think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falkor Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Another idea is to still have the first half of the run still attached to the cube, and that attached to the run, so you can slide the roof forwards and still use the underneath cube in the run - thats what Poet's done I think oooooohhh like it!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...