Part 0800.0005

[atsw]

I think A4U do the same - attach the mesh before then screw together

Yes, that's right. All the A4U panels are complete on delivery, the mesh is already stapled to the wood (on the inside to answer an earlier question), and all fixings like doors, hinges etc are attached as well. You just have to screw the panels together to form the overall run.

 

 

Lewis, your run looks great, well done .

 

Andrew

[Plum]

Andrew did the roof come ready assembled. I can't remember what you said.

[thelurch]

Hi folks, another question for you experts with your walk in runs.

 

I've been out visiting various poultry sundrie suppliers today and the one thing I haven't seen in the flesh is the weldmesh.

 

I thought I would go for 1" x 1" squares but I'm a little confused by the different guages that it comes in, I have seen 16 and 19 guage on websites but am not sure exactly what this refers to or what is better, I assume the lower the figure the better, as the price seems to go in that direction.

 

I think I will order from hills of Devon but they do the 1" x 1" squares in 1.0mm wire thickness and 1.6mm. Would 1.0mm be ok with mr fox? As the price seems to double between the two grades.

 

Hope all that makes sense to someone !

[Plum]

I've been told 16g is thicker than 19g and better for fox protection but lots of runs have 19g and I've not seen anyone post that a fox has bitten through it. I will play safe and get 16g.

[fluffyknickers]

I'm on WIR countdown! SO cannot wait I am silly excited!

[emchook]

Plum I have 16 gauge on the sides and 19g on the roof.

It didnt cost much more and it is definitely substantial stuff

[Plum]

Yes think it's worth it.

[thelurch]

Thanks for the replies, Im still torn between the 16g (1.6mm) and 19g (1.0mm)

 

A4U use 19g for their runs.

 

Will need 2 x 30m rolls so Im swaying towards 19g as it will work out about £40 more to get 16g....but that might change tomorrow

[Cooks]

I have 19g and have no problems with it at all

[emchook]

The lurch wrote: A4U use 19g for their runs.

 

I have an A4U and Tony upgraded to 16g when I asked him to.

[atsw]

Andrew did the roof come ready assembled. I can't remember what you said.

The roof is also made up of panels, which drop in from the top and sit on a baton which attaches around the top of the vertical panels. I hope the picture below shows what I'm trying to say!

 

 

Andrew

[Plum]

Thanks Andrew I meant the polycarbonate one.

[Lewis]

Can anyone help with attaching the corrugated plastic to the panels please?

 

I've seen you can get the plastic heads(?) that you get to cover the screws, but my uncle who works in B&Q said we don't really need them and its just another cost

 

Was thinking of drilling a small pilot hole in the plastic then using a bigger screw into the wood, but is it likely to crack the plastic?

 

Ta

[Cooks]

you need the plastic cups lewis, they seal the screw so you dont get drips

[Lewis]

you need the plastic cups lewis, they seal the screw so you dont get drips

Ooh of course, will tell him ta

[atsw]

you need the plastic cups lewis, they seal the screw so you dont get drips

Ooh of course, will tell him ta

Plastic cups are recomended, but I found that using a 'self-tapping' screw through the corrugated plastic and into the wood worked fine.

 

I didn't pre-drill the corrugated plastic, just tapped straight into it. The self-tapper seals as it goes. Make sure you align the 'dips' of the corrugated plastic with the wood beams, otherwise you will have issues (you want the plastic and wood pressed tightly together to ensure you don't get any leaks where the screws go through).

 

Andrew

[atsw]

Thanks Andrew I meant the polycarbonate one.

Ah, sorry .

 

In that case, see ** here ** for some pictures of my polycarbonate roof.

 

Putting the roof on was the most difficult bit of the whole run. You have to try and avoid putting too much weight on the roof when leaning over to put in the screws. I found that laying some planks across helped to spread the load.

 

Andrew

[Plum]

Thanks that's really clear. The man I am hoping will do the groundwork (if his quote is good) has said he'll put the roof on for me. He doesn't really understand what I'm going to do so if alright by you I've printed off the pictures of your runs.

[Janty]

Has anybody had a 4ft high run from Tony?

 

Only asking as I am thinking about options for the quail and as my existing quail love their 'Tony' inside the big 'Tony', I am thinking of having something similar built that will sit outside.

 

I was thinking of 4ft high x 3 ft deep x 10/12ft long with a partition half way down. That way I could house two separate groups of quailies in comfort.

 

Any ideas?

[Lewis]

you need the plastic cups lewis, they seal the screw so you dont get drips

Ooh of course, will tell him ta

Plastic cups are recomended, but I found that using a 'self-tapping' screw through the corrugated plastic and into the wood worked fine.

 

I didn't pre-drill the corrugated plastic, just tapped straight into it. The self-tapper seals as it goes. Make sure you align the 'dips' of the corrugated plastic with the wood beams, otherwise you will have issues (you want the plastic and wood pressed tightly together to ensure you don't get any leaks where the screws go through).

 

Andrew

Thanks

Will have a look at the caps + self-tapping screws

[tom123]

Has anybody had a 4ft high run from Tony?

 

Only asking as I am thinking about options for the quail and as my existing quail love their 'Tony' inside the big 'Tony', I am thinking of having something similar built that will sit outside.

 

I was thinking of 4ft high x 3 ft deep x 10/12ft long with a partition half way down. That way I could house two separate groups of quailies in comfort.

 

Any ideas?

 

 

Don't have a 4ft high Tony but do have lots of these made by myself.

 

They work well as they are a lot easier to attach a roof to but are a bit of a pain to get to the back of unless they aren't very deep (like yours).

 

[Janty]

Thanks Tom

 

[Plum]

Another stupid question. Does the guttering go on last.

 

It's like being at the other end of the mystery quilt thread.

[atsw]

Yes. It also has to have a gentle slope to avoid the problem of water sitting in the gutter. Gutters should slope approx 1 inch every 16-20 feet toward the downspout. Don't be tempted to make it too steep, the water will run too quickly and overshoot the downspout and pour over the end of the gutter.

 

 

 

Andrew

[Plum]

That makes sense but I wouldn't have thought of it. Thanks